So, I've had this thing for five or six months but hadn't needed to prep any brass for quite a while. Today I used up all my .25-06 and want to load a new batch, so I broke the machine out and set it up---out in the garage so as to not be operating a never-before-seen device where my wife might take notice. And wouldn't ya know it, she comes traipsing out there to get some hamburger out of the freezer. And immediately notices. And starts asking questions. And makes a comment to the effect that there sure are a lot of gizmos I need for this hobby. Then leaves me in peace...well, whadya know.

Anyway, this machine is the Annealeez, as seen here. Overall I was very happy with the way it works. You can build your own considerably cheaper, but you gotta chase down all the parts and fabricate stuff and assemble it...which is okay if you, like, don't have a job, but I'd rather reload and shoot and hunt than fabricate stuff like this. So, if you're been thinking of getting one of these, I'd give it a thumbs up. Makes a tedious chore simple, fast, and pretty darned precise. Gitcha one.

I like the looks of that. Thank for the review. I'll have to check it out.

I like it. Can it long and short actions.

That looks great.

Yes, it will accommodate different case lengths. I had to get some extra stuff for it to anneal .222 Remington, and it would work for .300 BO, .22 Hornet, etc., and it's not that expensive compared to the cost of the machine. I don't recall the case length limit for its original configuration, but it handles up to '06 case length right out of the box. I did .25-06 cases yesterday. I think---no, I am sure they have the required accessories to handle longer cases also.

I don't need one. My neighbor has one I can borrow. Looks just like yours.

Probably my next reload tool. Looks like a good product. Thanks for posting.

He tells me you screwed up the last propane accessory you borrowed from him.

It was cheap junk. He can borrow my good one.

RR, are you using an indicator like a Tempilaq on how hot your temp is to get the correct setting? Looks cool that I like to add one to my reloading table. Does it help your groups shrink a little better and more consistent since it makes necks a little softer and releases the bullet more consistently? I know the main purpose of an annealer is too help brass last longer, just a thought.

Says he fixed it by attaching it to a propane tank that had propane in it, also says he would rather not borrow your "good one" that emits far too much flame for the job.

Stan, according to people who have conducted experiments, annealing necks can improve accuracy. I believe it does, but haven't tried to prove it. What I do know for sure is that it can make the feel of seating bullets more consistent, which suggests to me that bullet pull would be more consistent and which should also make ignition and the entire burn more consistent. My main goal in annealing was originally to extend case life, which it does.

I use Tempilaq (475 degrees F) to set up for annealing. It came with a Hornady annealing kit I bought six or seven years ago. Even when I did it with an electric drill, I would use Tempilaq on five or six cases to get a good count on how long to apply flame, and then just count after that. Same thing for the machine. It has a speed control that works pretty well. The time that flame is applied to the case neck can probably vary somewhat, depending on flame intensity. The way I set my flame, a nine count usually is about right for flame time.

Thanks RR for the feedback, once you turn on the flame, do you need to do the Tempilaq all over again to get the correct temp before you do your batch? Does the flame have one or multiple settings with numbers? Would it be a good idea to write the flame setting numbers and time in a notebook and when you do your batches in the future for different calibers, you just look up your data and set the flame and time?

No Stan, unfortunately the flame is not controlled by any metering device so you have to figure out how to set it consistently each time you use the annealer. I don't think its either that difficult or critical, to tell the truth. I do think it's a good idea to verify by using the Tempilaq on a case or two when setting up, though.

A friend told me to install a variable regulator in line before the flame on my Giraud. It does make for a more consistent flame, therefore more consistent results based on run time, case to case. I also rigged mine up to run on a 20# cylinder instead of the expensive 1#.

You'll love the results! I've got 6.5 Creedmoor brass about to be loaded for the sixth time.

Do you use 475 degree setting for all cases or does small case necks differ from the bigger ones? Sorry for the questions, but curious minds wants to know.

Pretty slick looking gadget......

Tempilaq not necessary, turn the lights off in the room and run it until the case mouth starts to turn that red/orange. That is your time.

Also, Tempilaq has a short shelf life...another reason it's a pain to work with.

^^This guy^^ over-came my OCD, and told me to do that.

You just brush a little on the case body just below the shoulder, when it goes clear you are done. Same for .222 all the way to a .458 or whatever.

My Tempilaq got all thick but I thinned it with acetone. Or was it lacquer thinner? Don't recall, but I've been using the same bottle five or six years. I think it's a far better method than just watching the case neck start to glow.

I bought the Annealeez about 6 weeks ago. Since then I have run about 1000 cases through it. Mostly 223, but some 7x57 as well. I like the machine. My friend has a Benchsource, and the Annealeez is not quite as refined as that. But the Annealeez comes to your door for $275, and the cheapest I could find the Benchsource was like $550 + shipping. So the Annealeez is basically half the cost. And at that price, it is a heck of a deal.

As the machine arrives at your door, it will anneal anything from 223 to 30-06. Adapter wheel kits are available for smaller cases, and another kit for larger cases. I think the extra wheel kits are like $25. But since I don't have anything bigger or smaller that that, I didn't need the extra wheels.

To me annealed brass not only lasts much longer, but is more consistent on neck tension, which leads to improved accuracy. When I looked around at how many $$$ brass I had, and how much work I had in uniforming all of it, it was a no-brainer to me to buy a machine. My friend had been annealing some brass for me for a year or so and I could see the benefits of the process.

As far as setting up the machine, if you talk to 10 different people you will get 10 different answers. Most seem to agree however that meaningful softening of the brass does not begin until 650-700 degrees. But too much heat can start cooking some of the metal out of the brass. I have 650 degree Tempilaq I used for setup in the beginning, and I put some inside the case mouth as well. Now that I am getting used to my machine I don't worry about that so much. Here is a really good video on what you are looking for and trying to accomplish with your annealing.

https://www.primalrights.com/articles/annealing-how-to-do-it-right-every-time