Here's a good one for those familiar with the two shot sight in method.

Just to recap, the method begins by taking a shot from a solid rest with the crosshairs on the bullseye. With the gun not yet zeroed but bore sighted, the bullet should hit somewhere on the paper target. Next, the rifle is held in place, again with the crosshairs on the bullseye. The scope sight is then adjusted so the crosshairs match the bullet hole.

So here's the question.

If the final zero is to produce a shot that's one inch high at the distance the shot was made, to what point is the scope adjusted?

My thoughts are to a point one inch below the bullet hole. Correct?

Correct

Bore sight.

Shot one lands somewhere. Measure the windage and elevation error by holding the reticle back on the original point of aim. Make the adjustments to windage and elevation, on the turrets, of where you want the next shot to be.

In a perfect system, meaning extremely tight shooting ammo & rifle, and a perfectly tracking scope, the next shot should land where you want it.

The measurement I was referring to, was with a Mil or MOA reticle. If you don't have that, you'll need graph lines on the paper target you can read through the scope, or you have to go down to the target with a ruler, and measure the error, in inches. Return to the rifle/ scope, and adjust accordingly. Again, in perfectly operate equipment, and a perfect shooter, shot two should land where you want it.

Nm I'm said tracked this morning

I've never found that method useful because I can't see the bullet hole clearly though the rifle scope.

It's all relative to the distance sighted in at. Assuming it's at 100 yards and you are using a 1/4 MOA scope, than you would drop the elevation by 4 clicks equalling 1". If it's a closers or father distance it's needs to be adjusted accordingly, and if a SPF scope make sure the adjustment is made at the proper power or just use the turret regardless of magnification.

Yup

Postoak, use a precision paper target and ruler, measure from aim point to center of bullet hole. Unless you're using a 2x red dot you should be able to find a bullet hole unless it's improperly bore sighted. Pull bolt, look down the bore and center on the down range target. Then adjust scope to center of the target. Unless it's a non bolt action this works the best, it's not use a laser at home against a wall.

I'll just stick with the method I've been using for over 50 years. It works fine. I just take note of how and in what direction the bullet is off and adjust the scope accordingly.

And what does that mean?

I was sidetracked, and posted something completely irrelevant that I meant to post on another thread

I understand the principal of the 2 shot method, but it requires a scope that tracks perfectly... many do not. I only own one scope that does. Many of my leupold scopes require a different amount of clicks than their 1/4 inch per click at 100 yards indicates.

redchevy, that's one reason Tx Dan's method of moving crosshairs to the actual POI works well, you're not dependant on 'number of clicks per inch', you simply move the crosshairs till they are where you want them, in his case 1" below POI. ....works no matter what distance you are shooting. The only downside is possibly not having the rifle steady enough while making the adjustment. P_102

Right on. Been doing it that way for longer than I remember, and I have never had to count clicks.

There's definitely not a reason to count clicks but like P_102 said, it's hard to keep it that steady. If a scope won't track, it's gone, period. But not all "hunting" style scopes track like the precision ones

I can't imagine being able to hold a gun still enough while adjusting turrets to make that work without some sort of tool/stand/etc.

I do it from the bench using the regular sand bag/rear rest setup.

Yes, it's a very common sense approach to sighting in a rifle.

Of course the entire process is dependent on the "trust accuracy" of the initial shot. For that reason, I prefer to use a lead sled to help mitigate shooter variance. After making the initial shot, the gun is held fixed in the same position with the crosshairs pointed at the bullseye. A lead sled also works well for the next step- a gun vise works even better. With the gun held firmly in the SAME position as when initially fired, the scope is adjusted so that the crosshairs match where the bullet hit the paper. After doing this, the gun would need to be repositioned to bring the aim back to the bullseye. This repositioning corrects the aim so that a follow up shows results in the bullet impacting the bullseye, depending on the accuracy of the rifle.

So getting back to my original question, if the goal is to create a setting that produces a shot that impacts one inch high, adjust the scope in Step 2 to a point one inch below the bullet impact point. And of course, a series of three shot groups would further confirm the accuracy of the process.

Still, if you're looking to zero a new scope in fewer shots so you can begin focusing more on practice for the accuracy of the shooter, the process works very well.

It works. I boresight first to make sure 1st shot is on paper. Make sure that 1st shot is from an absolute sold hold and sight picture.
Saves ammo.

Sighted in the wife's .243 yesterday like this. 1st shot on the paper, adjust cross hairs to the hole, 2nd shot bullseye, third shot to confirm. All done from bipod and rear bag. Done. Make sure you have a solid, steady rest.