Once the base and rings arrive later this week, I'll be mounting a new scope on my new Weatherby. I've always had good luck mounting scopes without all the special gear you see others using on the YouTube videos. However, this time I'm thinking I'll use a laser level that I have to project a line down the center axis of the entire gun to ensure the scope is centered on the same axis. I'll do this using the level's feature that creates a line that can be projected an practically anything. My thoughts are that it could be a step that goes beyond the checks made with alignment bars that are placed in the scope rings, since this assumes one of the bars is centered on the rifle.

Comments?

If it's a bolt action, mount the scope, get eye relief correct, level the rifle, level the reticle to a known level line, torque the ring cap screws, pull the bolt and bore sight it. Look at a fixed object through the barrel, then look at the scope. Adjust the scope until it "sees" what you see looking down the barrel.

I've had scores of people bring out a scope that was bore sighted by any other means using gadgets, I check it, and dial a ton of corrections. First shot is on an 8 1/2" X 11" piece of paper. It can be done in two minutes.

The laser is designed to zap your wallet.

Do as FJG says.

I think Dan is referring to a laser level for like a construction project, not one of the ones you chamber in a gun. Probably a neat idea to get the crosshairs level.

Amen to what FJG said.

Correct.

Once mounted and centered on the gun, I use a small bubble level to level the crosshairs since we often cant our rifles when shoulding them. I have a lead sled that I can use to hold the rifle perpendicular while leveling the crosshairs. But you're right, I could also use the level to project a level line on the wall for leveling the crosshairs as well, again making sure the gun is perpendicular in the lead sled.

For centering the scope on the gun, I'll point the laser down so that it projects a line along the center axis of the barrel and stock, end to end. I'll use this visible line to make sure the scope axis is aligned with it.

This will not bore sight the scope and rifle, but only ensure it's now ready for that next step after adjusting for eye relief and crosshair leveling.

Sounds more like he's concerned that the scope and bore are on the same axis?

For leveling a scope, I use a bright flashlight or laser. Level the rifle in a vise or on table using bipod and rear bag 6 feet or so from a wall. I use a door jam that is vertical (checked with a level).

Shine the light through the objective of the scope which will project the crosshairs on the wall, door jam, plumb bob etc or level line on a wall.

move the scope and tighten up the screws so the crosshairs are aligned with the level or vertical reference.



Just another way of getting the scope level. Not my pic but one from the internet where I got the idea from.

A very good idea. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome! When you say "shine thru objective", are you saying have the gun/scope turned around backwards or did you mean "shine thru ocular"? Seems like a great concept!

Yes.

In my case, the front base will have the standard dovetail, meaning it is fixed and cannot be adjusted. The rear ring will be held in place by base screws so that it can moved left or right to be brought into alignment with the front ring. If you have a set, this is done by inserting alignment bars into each ring so that any misalignment between the front and rear ring can be seen and corrected by where the two bars meet between the two rings.

Because I don't have a set of these alignment bars, I'm thinking I can achieve the same result by placing the scope in the rings and then use the laser to create a visible line along the middle axis of the rifle. Any misalignment of the rear ring will make the scope appear out of alignment (at the front or rear of the scope) with center axis of the gun.

Get rid of those windage adjustable rings, and many problems will go away.

On normal height rifles and scopes, the collimator is still the best way to get close. Done right, it should be on paper from the get go.

Little more difficult with raised scopes, huge objectives, etc. Bolt action thru the bore is a decent method, but won't work on closed in semi autos at all.

As for squaring/truing crosshairs, there are several good methods, and I like the idea above with the light. For years I have used the lines in the garage door in the north end of my shop very effectively.

I would caution that some shooters, due to frame/stature, or a handling issue, hold the gun in different ways. What's good for one shooter may not always work for others. I like to have a client there when setting a scope, or at least have watched them shoulder and hold other guns.

Marines from the 70's, tend to shoot with their right elbow WAAAAY in the air, high enough to cause a cant in the scope... many of them want the scope set in a way that would make many of us call it crooked...

That's for sure.

I would bet many of the guys here aligned their crosshairs based on their appearance when shouldering the rifle, having no idea they were actually tilting the rifle slightly at the time.

I've had friends look through my scopes and claim the crosshairs are slightly off. I've never felt the need to recommend they check their own scopes, not while shoulding them, but with the gun held truly vertical.

The main issue with setting to preference, at least in my eyes, is that if the crosshairs are crooked it will affect the POI in regards to L/R wouldn't it?

I cant just a touch when I shoulder the rifle. Having the crosshairs correct reminds me to correct the cant when I shoot.

I think most of us shoulder a gun with a slight cant, and have to correct it straight when looking through the scope, its the nature of each person being different.

However, for the 100 yard shot and in, a very slight cant isn't going to make much difference, couple inches here or there on a deer/hog/human sized target isn't a hill of beans...

Getting out further is where that cant will play into the left/right depending on the cant and may cause the shot to be quite a bit off depending on distance.

Good post.

Whatever you should find after checking your scope, DO NOT go making changes at this late hour and end up missing a deer because you overlooked something in the process. You would benefit more by just getting a little more practice with your current setup.

Shine the light into the scope from theobjective end luke you are trying to shine it into the shooters eye. Have it set on low power in say a 3x9 have it on 3