Things at my 9-5 job have slowed way down and there's chances of lay offs so I'm going to get me another dually truck get some hauling jobs going just in case. I've have had duramax's and power strokes but I've been using a buddies Cummins and like the way it pulls and I really like the price points. I'm not ready to jump in a $50k truck and hope for the best so I'm going to look at some used ones. I found a 2012 ram 3500 4x4 with 74k miles and the price seems right. Does any one have any comments or concerns with that year model? I'm 90% sure it's pre def fluid so that's a plus for me I think. It'll be a daily driver to and from work and then hauling up to 16000lbs +/-. I hope that some one sees this that can give some good advice. I'm giving up my jeep and my Chevy 1500 for this truck so I want to know that there's some good things to look forward to on this particular year model. Of course I'll add some power train warranty just in case. Thanks ahead of time.

For hauling they seem to be the choice of many hot shots. Price maybe? I don't know. I've had several customers being in chevys with 300k, tons of 7.3 fords some with over a million and plenty of Cummings with 500k plus. All a matter of taking care of them. For the price the dodge it's hard to over look.

The newer model trucks with the DPF system will fail its not if, its when. I know its a legal thing but if your looking for reliability you should think about having the DPF removed whether its a Dodge, Ford, or GM. I had issues with the DPF on mine causing the truck to shutdown or run at a limited speed. With the new generation of mechanics you can bank on a minimum of a week in the shop. Needless to say I had mine deleted and it never looked back since. The DPF also stresses the turbo by excessive heat from restricting the exhaust (DPF). The DPF regeneration cycle injects fuel on the exhaust stroke and causes fuel to contaminate the motor oil. Look at amsoil's website, it states for engines with DPF they don't allow extended oil drain intervals due to the fuel contaminating the oil, amsoil states to follow manufactures oil drain intervals.

I've got a 2011 cummins, and you are correct, the 2012s did not have the DEF fluid. The 2500s & 3500s started that in '13.

With that said, I have had zero issues with mine. I deleted the DPF at 50k miles. Mileage went up 2-3 MPG better when I deleted, but when I put some 35's on the ground, the mileage went right back to stock numbers...13-14 while empty and when loaded it really depends what I'm pulling.

I deleted just because I wanted a little more power and to get rid of the DPF and EGR. I'm not going to tell you to delete or not delete. That's whatever you prefer, but if you do, don't skip the supporting mods as well. I've seen many guys that slap a tuner and delete kit, turn the power up a bunch and as soon as they start the truck they are pedal to the metal. That's a good way to pop your head gasket. Throw some head studs in it, let the engine warm up before hammering on it, and you'll be good to go. If you run around on higher power tunes, you better beef the tranny also.

A lot of the people that had the issues with their DPF going bad, weren't using their trucks like they should. They would tootle around town, sit and idle for long periods of time and not get the exhaust hot enough to burn out the build up...causing clogged dpfs. If you work the truck (sounds like you will be by pulling most of the time) you shouldn't have issues. Get ready for ball joints up front at around 120k-150k. If you take care of it, it'll take care of you.

I love my 2011 and wouldn't trade it straight across for a new ford or chevy.

I would say if you plan to delete the DPF then pre DEF(before 2013) would be preferred. If you are planning to leave the truck stock I would want one with DEF, they get better mileage and seem to have fewer issues with the emissions system. There is a reason Dodge/ram quit making just a dpf system and went to def also.

Mine had DEF also, it was more of a sensor issue than a DPF/DEF. When one the thermocouples or N2oxide sensors quit working it limits the power and range on the truck. 55mph for 30 minutes and your on the shoulder. If you decide to delete, don't use a racing tune the safest thing to do is leave it on a tow setting and always monitor EGT's and boost when towing, if you .410 or .430 gears you should be fine with the transmission unless you want heavy duty clutch plates and a bigger cooler. I pull a 90hp tractor on a 35' trailer for 6hrs straight periodically and haven't had any issues yet (knock on wood). Only thing I regret is not getting a dually.

I have a 2012 3500 4x4 dually with a c and M flatbed on it with 58k miles . It's priced right if you're interested . I just don't need this much truck anymore .

Sounds like my truck! +1