I really want to spring for the Deer views, but just don't think I can right now. I've read online about some guys who took a sheet of plexiglass, put a couple layers of duct tape on top, and screw the duct tape into the blind to make swinging windows. Any body found a good way to add hinges to plexiglass? Or found another cheap option for Windows?

The cheapest route is to add a hinge to your OSB or plywood cutout, instant window. This has its downsides, of course. For one, it has to be open. Some of those colder mornings I'm not a fan.

What I'm doing is the above, cutting the opening in anticipation of getting Deerview and then buying them when I can afford (didn't budge for a new blind this year...) it. Granted don't know your situation, but there's a lot of time between now and deer season.

If still out of the question, depending on your setup, I've seen some guys cut out a window frame with a grove down the center. Place two pieces of glass in the frame and allow them to slide out. Using spare wood and some plexiglass should make for a cheap setup.

I have taken wood and built a frame for the plexiglass. Then you just attach the hinge to the wood instead of screwing through the plexiglass. Plexiglass tends to crack if you put a hole or any stress on it, so you have to pre-drill all the holes. Even pre-drilling, you have to be sure to select the right size screw or the stress will make it crack when the temp starts to change or you get a variance in the temperature.

Another cheap option is to install two tracks along the side of the window and let the plexiglass slide up and down in the track. Use a cloth adhesive strip on each edge that will slide in the track, cuts down on the glass popping from the wind or making noise when you slide it. You can get the 3M velcro to hold it open and if the cloth adhesive strip is tight enough, won't take much to hold it open anyway.

We have 8 blinds and only two with Deerviews. All the rest are plexiglass on hinges. They stay open with a coat hanger through a hole drilled in the bottom. To keep shut there is a piece of wood with nails that fit in holes at the bottom of the window opening. Just use yellow wasp strips to keep them out.

Here was my solution for Plex windows:

Blind window build

I have built as TXSHNTR has detailed. Mine hinge at the top and are held open with hook and eye latches at the ceiling. They are held closed with very simple thumb latches. Lowes will cut the plexi-glass for you.

Thanks guys

You can do it like this, without frames. This was one I built for a buddy, and he spec'd it that way. Just sandwich your plexiglass between two pieces of wood and drill through it at a medium speed. Use the thickest you want to buy and it will be rigid enough to not blow open. My own, I build a frame about 1/4" smaller on width and length for 1/8" clearance and hinge the top. Use a button head screw through pre-drilled plexiglass to attach to the frame. The same thumb latches work great.

I found that if used the table saw with the blade set shallow, it will cut a perfect channel that the plexiglass I bought fits in nice and snug. Going to build a frame out of 1x2 and just push he plexiglass in to them. Should be easy peasy.

I have built a frame for the plexiglass Windows and simply cut grooves into the inside of the frame for the glass to slide back and forth in. It's always worked well for me and is pretty cheap.

I'll post pics of what I came up with on Sunday day. I got the frames all cut last night, just need to finish them.

My plan was creating more headaches than I expected. But I found that if I sandwiched the plexiglass between 2 half inch boards, I could nail it with the finish nailer nail gun with very little cracking. Worked well.

Let me throw in another option that has worked great. Go to the garden section of HD or L, buy some of that plastic-like lattice edging and use it for the window edge runners. Drill a larger hole on the outer portion of the edging, then use a sheetrock screw to attach to the blind. The plexiglass will then slide up and down the edging. It is tight enough that it will stay open when needed, quiet as a church mouse when opening or closing. No hinges needed.

This is what I did. no drilling, no extra cutting for channels. Lined the outside with butyl seal tape and used HD hinges. No leaks, no bugs, cheap and easy.

the seal is important to keep those pesky wasps out...

i am about to demo a sun room and have 20 windows and 3 doors, use real windows much better...make an offer
Jefferson 817-602-0348

Exactly what I did, worked great. I added some wood in the bottom rail so I could take the window in and out. I also like the railings on the outside of the blind so any rain runs off the outside of the blind not inside. Lowes has the copper colored cap at $1.74 per 8' stick.

Someone paying to advertise on blinds now?

I use plexiglass or lexan from homedepot with cabinet hindges. Depending on size 13 to 19 a window

i got away from plexi glass as its not cheap and not very clear specially as it ages. I use real glass window pane its much cheaper and do exactly as other do here i make my trim on a table saw 1 1/2 by 3/4 and run a shallow groove in it, then trim out my glass, now you have wood to attach hinges and latches etc, cabinet latches work great the kind you push into and they snap and hold closed. lowes and home depot have pre cut sizes in window pane, i suggest you buy these trim them out then get your final measurement so you know what to make your openings, my blind window openings are always cased out with cedar or treated, i like to use deck boards to case out all my openings. then windows are made to fit that opening

I may be a little late, but I sell aluminum window track that easily screw to your deer blind wall. If you have any questions just give me a call or text at 469-628-5261 & I can give you more information & pictures.

Yes sir, I'm all sponsored up like the bass guys.

Most of the bigbox lumber stores has an alumninum "H" Channel that is used to join the edges of 3/8" plywood.
A 12 foot piece runs about 5 bux.
It has one side that has a wide flange so you can screw/nail this to the blind.
Just cut it at 45 degree angles on each end and it makes a nice frame
Two pieces of 1/8" Lexan will slide right by each other.

As for plastic get Lexan or polycarbonate.
You can drill and cut that stuff easily and that's what they make aircraft windows/canopies out of so it's pretty tough.
Most of the bigbox stores have this also in various thicknesses and in clear and smoke.

Pardon this sample....it has spent many years installed outside.




Hope that helps someone and maybe saves a few bux!