I was not able to shoulder bump the 7mm Magnum Nosler brass with the Redding Type S Match full length resizing bushing die. I screwed it in as far as it can go till it has a little firm contact with the ram. Still at chamber shoulder size of 2.112". I also tried with a RCBS full length sizer, still the same. Both are screwed all the way down. Does this case need a body die to bump the shoulders?

If the brass fits your chamber without undue effort closing the bolt, there's no reason to do this. The purpose of bumping the shoulder is to push the shoulder back a smidgen when necessary. Is your brass a tight fit in the chamber of your rifle? Also, are you sure your die is not the neck-only type?

Just back the FL die out a little at a time until you get the desired amount of shoulder set back you want. If you screw to die down all the way to touch the shell holder, it will FL size.

Your die should do it, it's the same one I use to bump back my 7 Rem Mag brass.

Have you looked into a thinner shell holder?

No, never have. Just using the standard shell holders that came with the kit 25 years ago.

I was able to bump all my other calibers except the 7 Mag. Maybe I'll do some research on a thinner shell holder.


Went back to the bench and started again with the die in the highest position, and in increments until I made contact with the shell holder, so I screwed it in about a quarter turn and it was a little tight there, but it worked there at .002 bump back. Thanks

I'm in the same boat. I have an RCBS die set and it won't touch the shoulder either. There is a die out there for belted mags. Let me look, if I find it, I'll post the link.

You got it to cam over. All the slack is out of the press, and shell holder. I've got a couple that are set that way. You've got a tight chamber, but not so tight you need a thinner shell holder. Looks like all is well.

Check out the 3rd item down on this page.

http://www.larrywillis.com

I thought to get proper bump back of the shoulder you had to screw the die in further than contact with the shell holder. That is, screw it in until contact, then drop the ram and screw in another turn. Measure the amount of set back you get and then screw out gradually until you get what you want. Another way would be to get contact and then screw IN until you get the set back you want. The latter method has the advantage of not setting some case shoulders too much.

Postoak, have been bumping shoulders or just neck sizing with FL dies for years using your latter method. works and like you said not sizing some too much.

The collet sleeve sizing die works great on tight chamber magnums. I don't see this being the case on this set up. But the tool does work well when you have to size the area right above the belt where a FL die will not reach.

I think KillBox Alpha is referring to the Precision Die Shims underneath the collect sleeve sizing die. It's actually the 4th item that he meant, if I am not mistaken. But you are right about the collect die. Looks like the 4th item on that website will work to fix my little issue and to prevent issues down the road. Thanks guys.

RiverRider, the brass chambers just fine before I did that bump, reason is because I felt one of the rounds had a pretty snug bolt at the range, so I felt it was necessary to bump to be on the safe side. The die is a Redding Type S Match full length sizer.

Big Stan, I'm pretty sure he was pointing at the 3rd item, the Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die, as that is one cure for a full-length sized case that still won't chamber.

Those shims, if I understand their use correctly, are an alternative to backing off the die from its maximum FL location. The thing is, you only have to adjust your die one time (but will probably require multiple efforts to get it set right), if you have only one rifle in 7mm RM. Usually a .003" push back of the shoulder is considered about right. You apparently have some way of measuring this since you mentioned setting back .002". For people who don't, a Digital Headspace Gauge (the 2nd item on that web page) is a good investment.

I misunderstood on that the shims would help but looks like its the opposite of what I am trying to do, lol. I guess a machined shell holder done at the machine shop would work shaving maybe .20" off the top so I can screw the die in some more to bump.

If you shave .20" off a shell holder, you will F crap up bad! .006" of an inch is generally the difference between min and max head space.

So, are you getting enough sizing for your brass to chamber or not? If it chambers, then what's the problem? A standard FL die will do what you want if you know how to use it. I'd be shocked if it didn't.

I guess I should ask- what tool/tools are you using to measure the head space (i.e.- shoulder bump)? And where are you measuring this on the case/shoulder?

I don't understand why you want to change the shell holder, either. You said you are pushing the shoulder back .002" and that is just about ideal. If loaded rounds chamber, then you are all set.

I don't have any issues with my brass chambering, I felt only one round chamber pretty snug than the others last week. It's the reason I wanted to bump .002" which I did with the die screwed all the way down to the shell holder plus a half of a turn more. Just not sure if its Ok to leave it as is, or should I back off? Some people said to shave some material off the top of the shell holder, but I am not quite sure if that is the way to go because you just said it is not a good idea. The die sizes just fine, its the "not able to bump" that confuses me. I have no problem with my other dies in several calibers, they all bump just fine without screwing it in as far as I did with the 7 Mag. I am using the Hornady Lock n Load Headspace comparator kit. I use the fired cases and measure those for headspace measurement, and bump back .002". The fired cases are the same dimensions as the chamber. It's the first time I did this stuff, any corrections from my fellow patriots on here is appreciated. Sometimes I do stupid things, we all do but we all learn from our mistakes.

Curious what kind of press are you using?
I have had to turn my dies down a half turn past touching shellholder occassionally with a couple of cartridges but if you are getting a hard cam-over that is not good on the press. Once I just swapped to another shellholder ,it was even same brand,and that helped. I had a half dozen of that size so I did not have to go buy another one is why I tried it.

I have the RCBS Rocker Chucker kit from about 25 years ago. What shell holder would that be? Hopefully you can send me a link.

For example, if you raise the ram to the top, and screw in the die to touch the shell holder and lock the die down, the brass will not get a standard FL sizing. Under stress of sizing, the die will no longer touch the shell holder, and not get a FL sizing. This is what I call the most common rookie reloading mistake.

How I set my sizing die up, is I raise the ram to the top of the stroke and screw in my sizing die, then lower the ram some and screw the die in a little at a time checking to see where the ram cams over. I want to set my die to FL size just before it cams over when making contact with the bottom of the die and shell holder. This will get the most leverage possible to FL size the brass.

Now, somewhere at the top of the ram stroke and adjusting your die in and out to make contact with the shell holder will vary the amount of "bump" you are looking for. It takes me about 8-10 cases, maybe a few more, to get the actual setting of shoulder bump that I want. You have to keep adjusting the die in and out to find your setting. If you need more bump, move the die deeper. Need less, back the die out. When fine tuning this setting, I am moving the die about 1/16 of a turn or less. It's a very small amount.

In my whisper voice....You want me to tell you a secret!!?? Just do the standard FL size, and call it good!!! Your rifle won't know the difference, I promise!

Both were just plain ole RCBS shellholders. One measured .006 less when I checked after seeing a difference.

Great advice.