Ok, I need a summer project and I want to make a long range rifle. Last year I picked up a Ruger M77 in 7MM mag. I’m not looking to make this a super expensive, high end rifle. I would like to explore different options that would take this rifle from a deer rifle and convert it into something a little more, something that can really reach out to 800 plus yards. I would really like to keep the original stock on the gun. What can I say, I like the traditional wooden stocks.

I have never done anything like this. I just buy a rifle and put a quality scope on it and sight it in. What advise can everyone offer. Where do I start? What are the 3-4 must haves or must do to this rifle to make it an effective long range rifle. I would like to be able to test it at 1000 yards at the end of the summer.

You will need a barrel that will fit your existing stock channel (i.e., no bull barrels will fit in the stock barrel channel)

What is the action threading on a Ruger M77? If it's metric, you will need to find a gunsmith that will work on a metric threaded action. If it's American Standard threading, then almost any gunsmith can do it. You will want to explore, or speak with, a gunsmith that has worked on M77 rifles.

Pick the bullet you want to shoot first, then select the barrel twist. Research the proper twist before you purchase the barrel. Work this backwards.

Speaking from as a fellow beginner's perspective, I'd second chad's statement. Get a new barrel and find a good person to install it and then spend moneys for reloading stuff.

The only thing I would add is I think it's worth getting your wooden stock pillar bedded as well. That will maximize the barrel upgrade.

How does it shoot now and what glass is on it? It may be capable of distance as it is. You may only need a 20 MOA rail so you can dial that far.

P_102

These guys have you on the right track. And u agree with everything stated.

Often times the difference between can hit at long range, and can't is the scope. Be prepared to have a decent budget for base, rings, and scope. The scope is so important, and they cost so much that I use three scopes on six rifles.

Mil/ Mil, first focal plane, all the way.

Thanks, I have some follow ups:

Chad - The rifle is stock from Ruger, I haven't changed a thing and was wondering if I could make this a 1000 yard rifle with the originals barrel. Can I?

Also, I am not sure the threading. How do I find this out?

Bullets: I need to look more at these. I purchased a box of Hornady ammo just to test fire the rifle. At 100 yards it was dead on. I stacked 3 shots that could be covered with a dime.

Korean Redneck: Can you clarify Pillar Bedded?

P_102: It has a Leupold 3x9 on it now. I plan on adding a different scope. Last season I put a Vortex on my 270 and I really like the scope. Any thoughts on a scope?

FiremanJG: Of all the areas I was planning on spending or in this case over spend is with the scope and all the part that go with it. Any suggestions on bases, rings and a scope?

Thanks for the help. My goal is to keep the rifle as close to factor look as I can and have a rifle that can consistently hit targets at long range.

I need to know budget to recommend a scope to get it done. You do get what you pay for with rifle scopes. At least the ones I'd point you toward.

If you can constantly cover 3 shot groups with a dime @ 100 yards with factory ammo there is not much to do with the rifle to shoot a long ways other than a good scope designed for the task.

GPS, I use Vortex also (6x24 PST) but I'll leave the question to Chad and JG, they have much more knowledge...P_102

If you're on a limited budget the PST is the best scope under 1k. You can find good used ones between 650-750 in the classifieds. I have a couple PST but bought a Schmidt Bender PMII 4x16FFP a couple weeks ago and it blows the PST out of the water. You get what you pay for, if you want to shoot long range just go ahead and bite the bullet and buy a good quality scope. If you can't see what you're shooting at, your probably not gonna hit it.

I'll say what know one has.... scrap the build on a Ruger M77 I'm not saying its a bad gun, just a bad gun to build on........ buy the time you do all the thing suggested you WILL have an expensive rifle project. you'd be better off trading or selling the Ruger and getting a Remy sendero 7mag or 300wm and be done

Having had a PST, and now a Burris XTR II (which was intended to compete with PST in price) I give the 100% nod to the Burris. Glass is slightly better, features are significantly better.

Bushnell Elite is a good option.

SS 5-20 HD is a good option

The more affordable Night Force SHV seems to be doing a pretty good job, as well.

Like others have said your desire to keep your factory stock will limit what you can get out of it barrel wise. A heavier barrel contour won't work with a factory stock in most cases. Also, most long range rigs use aluminum bedded synthetic stocks because they don't expand and contract with moisture like a wood one will. That equals out to less consistent support of the action. I second it to ditch the M77 and get a remington action to build on. Lots more parts availability. Good glass makes all the difference in the world too.

Just to be clear.

You don't "have" to have a heavy barrel and synthetic stock to shoot distance. Gunny Hathcock didn't in 1967. You do want the action tightly married to the stock, bedding and pillars fix that. You do want the barrel free floated, Emory cloth and a bipod will fix that. And with wood, I would give extra clearance between barrel and stock for temp and humidity swings causing the wood to move.

The purpose of the heavy barrel is so that you can shoot more rounds before the barrel heats up and starts shanking shots. So if you're happy with be able to shoot 3-5 rounds and then waiting to cool, rock what you have. I've taught many shooters that had that scenario and we did just that, let the barrel cool.

You sure could learn how to do it with the rifle you have, then build another one after you get more experience, and figure out what you want. The 7 Rem Mag could be a slightly modified great hunting rifle, capable of serious distance. Then you could build a ground up rifle in a short action you would enjoy shooting for more rounds in a session. Longer barrel life, and less money to feed.

This. I'd make sure the stock is free floated and bed the action. Then buy whatever scope these guys recommend.

Get the trigger worked. I've never seen a Ruger with a good trigger (Maybe American but haven't shot one). That's the best bang for the buck in improving accuracy for me.

I agree with this and some trigger work. I would spend the time and money on reloading equipment first because it looks to be pretty consistent the way it is. It may surprise you and be a really good shooter the way it is now.

I started to post earlier, but these guys have all said it. These are the cheap things to start with:

1-Free float the barrel
2-Bed the action/install pillars
3-Replace or work the trigger

Do that and then put a good scope on it and see how it shoots past 100 yards. As FJG said, you may not need to change anything, just get a good load for it and do work.

Fireman J- I am probably looking at $700 tops for the scope.

Everyone, I have never "worked" on a rifle. Is it realistic for me to:
1-Free float the barrel myself?
2-Bed the action/install pillars myself
3-Replace or work the trigger myself?

GPS, it is very simple to replace the trigger and also to float the barrel. The bedding and pillars I leave to a 'smith' but many with decent shop/tools do their own. Lots of YouTube videos out there. P_102

I would also agree with this. It's not what I would build on for my first project.

I don't know without shooting it and playing with it at distance. It really depends. If you have a good scope and run a factory rifle and shoot some good ammo, sure you can get out to 1K yards. But, how accurate will it be able to repeat the accuracy round to round with a factory contour barrel and factory set up.

What's the twist of the barrel? Lots of factors. But I will say this, I did this when I first started shooting with a 270 Win and 135 grain Sierra Matchking. It did fine, and I learned a lot. What I would recommend is upgrade your scope to be able to dial for elevation and wind, and see how the factory rifle does. Some will shoot good. But I don't think I would upgrade an M77. There's not a lot to work with.

So originally I wasn't looking to build a long range rifle. I have this rifle, I am not emotionally attached to it and so I am thinking I need project. I have never free floated a barrel, bedded the stock or worked on a trigger. I really want to see if this factor rifle can be made into a 1000 yard rifle with a few changes.

I will take any advise, just understand the rifle is the rifle.

If you wanted to try your factory rifle as it is (which I'd recommend first), a 168 Berger VLD hunting bullet will work in the 9.5" twist barrel of the factory gun. It would be worth a try to see what she does as is. You might be surprised.

She just might surprise me. I still want to tinker with it.