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a question for the folder makers.. #6083620 12/14/15 08:43 PM
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Kev® Offline OP
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I've never made one but I wanna give it a try, I've had this knife for a while and the handle cracked so I figured I tear it down to see how it was made.



My surprise was seeing a slot groove at the butt of the knife, and a divot that holds it there with one pin.

If I made the handle just a little longer could I just use 2 pins? This is on the spring action.

And then I noticed that the pins holding the bolsters to the liner were hollow inside, they looked flared?

I'm new to this and just thinking. Any advice is appreciated.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6083627 12/14/15 08:46 PM
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While I'm at it, how do I get the nail click on the knife?

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6083631 12/14/15 08:49 PM
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Kev® Offline OP
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As you can see in the photo the bond of the wood to the liner wasn't very good.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6084153 12/15/15 01:33 AM
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Craig B Offline
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Yes, drill 2 holes to hold the rear spacer/spring. You can cut the nail nick with a fly cutter before heat treat or a stone after heat treat. I cut a long pull with a slitting saw before heat treat. You can use a dremel cutoff wheel after heat treat.

I posted some information here about making lock backs. Locking folders

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Craig B] #6084254 12/15/15 02:24 AM
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Kev® Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Craig B
Yes, drill 2 holes to hold the rear spacer/spring. You can cut the nail nick with a fly cutter before heat treat or a stone after heat treat. I cut a long pull with a slitting saw before heat treat. You can use a dremel cutoff wheel after heat treat.

I posted some information here about making lock backs. Locking folders
thanks Craig I was hoping you'd chime in.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6085474 12/15/15 07:04 PM
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When I attempt this I'm planning on using some 440C in 1/16 thickness. What can I use for the spine and spring? I'm sure the spring needs to be heat treated, if so how is it done? I'm sure it needs to be tempered way down?

Do I heat treat the spine at all?

I'm planning on just trying to copy the knife in the pic with some changes because I don't have the equipment to do it how the manufacturer did.

Also what's a good way to attach the scales to the liners? On this knife there are 5 holes in the front bolster, 1 is for the blade movement but it appears the other 4 are pins that don't go through the bolsters.

Thanks

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6085661 12/15/15 08:16 PM
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Use the same steel for blade, lock bar and spring. Heat treat the blade and lock bar to the same hardness and draw the spring back at 1075F to get you 46rc.

What are you using for liners and bolsters. You can spot weld, solder or mill them from bar stock. Use something like locktite 326 to hold the handles on the liners until you can get them pinned.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Craig B] #6086214 12/16/15 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted By: Craig B
Use the same steel for blade, lock bar and spring. Heat treat the blade and lock bar to the same hardness and draw the spring back at 1075F to get you 46rc.

What are you using for liners and bolsters. You can spot weld, solder or mill them from bar stock. Use something like locktite 326 to hold the handles on the liners until you can get them pinned.
I've got some stainless liners,and I've got some stainless bar stock in 3/16 thickness. If I use pins for the wood how does that work? The pins need to end inside the liner and I'm sure you peen the inside, what do I do on the wood side with the pins? I can pin the bolsters with the same pin stock as the bolsters.

So, are you saying to heat treat the blade,lock bar and spring at the same temp and temper the spring at 1075? If so how many times and for how long?

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6086467 12/16/15 03:24 AM
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Use the same pin stock material as the bolsters or the pins will show. You can use something softer for the handle pins if you want but the same stainless pin stock will work.

The pins for holding the handle material on are near each bolster drill these holes after the bolsters are attached to keep the centered and spaced away from the bolster the same amount.

After the handles are glued on drill through these same holes into the handle material. Thin the pins or open the hole a little so the pins are not tight. I turn the pin stock by hand against a contact wheel to thin it.

A slight countersink on the inside of the liner and the outside of the handle material allows you to peen a head on each end to hold the handles to the liners without swelling the pin in the handle material and cracking it.

Yes heat treat all parts at the same time. Make your parts and Wrap each in tool wrap. Grind the blade after heat treat to keep warping down. Put the packets into a 1400 degree oven for 10 minutes then ramp up the temp to 1900, hold for 30 minutes, plate quench and temper for two hours two times. The blade and lock bar at 350f and the spring at 1075f. You can temper the spring with the lock bar and blade for the first temper while the heat treat oven is cooling then at 1075 for the second.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Craig B] #6086568 12/16/15 04:13 AM
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Kev® Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Craig B
Use the same pin stock material as the bolsters or the pins will show. You can use something softer for the handle pins if you want but the same stainless pin stock will work.

The pins for holding the handle material on are near each bolster drill these holes after the bolsters are attached to keep the centered and spaced away from the bolster the same amount.

After the handles are glued on drill through these same holes into the handle material. Thin the pins or open the hole a little so the pins are not tight. I turn the pin stock by hand against a contact wheel to thin it.

A slight countersink on the inside of the liner and the outside of the handle material allows you to peen a head on each end to hold the handles to the liners without swelling the pin in the handle material and cracking it.

Yes heat treat all parts at the same time. Make your parts and Wrap each in tool wrap. Grind the blade after heat treat to keep warping down. Put the packets into a 1400 degree oven for 10 minutes then ramp up the temp to 1900, hold for 30 minutes, plate quench and temper for two hours two times. The blade and lock bar at 350f and the spring at 1075f. You can temper the spring with the lock bar and blade for the first temper while the heat treat oven is cooling then at 1075 for the second.

thanks Craig.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6087779 12/16/15 08:26 PM
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Kev® Offline OP
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What about the blade pin, if I'm using round stock should I heat treat that pin? I'm assuming not since it will need to be peened in the bolster.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6087946 12/16/15 09:54 PM
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I got the blade cut today, I can see that you need to be very careful to get things to work right.


Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6088012 12/16/15 10:38 PM
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This thread is interesting. I envy you guys that can make things like this with your hands. I'm so clumsy, fat fingered, blind and impatient to even try. I'll be watching this to see the finished product.


Mmmm Hmmm
Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: d.g.ruff] #6088032 12/16/15 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted By: d.g.ruff
This thread is interesting. I envy you guys that can make things like this with your hands. I'm so clumsy, fat fingered, blind and impatient to even try. I'll be watching this to see the finished product.
dude, I wear a 15 wedding ring, actually using thin steel that's short isn't to bad. But I'm not near done. Lol!

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6088047 12/16/15 10:56 PM
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I got the spring cut and rough ground, I had to change it some because I can't do it like the knife companies can, I'll use 2 pins in the back bolster.


Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6088053 12/16/15 10:57 PM
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The one on the top is mine.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6088118 12/16/15 11:30 PM
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No need to heat treat the pin stock. Fit the lock bar to the blade before drilling the hole in the center of it.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Craig B] #6088122 12/16/15 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted By: Craig B
No need to heat treat the pin stock. Fit the lock bar to the blade before drilling the hole in the center of it.
that makes sense. I'm going to mount all the pieces to a board with pins to see how it works.

I appreciate your input Craig.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6088124 12/16/15 11:38 PM
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I got the lock cut, I left it long so I can tweek it.


Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6091556 12/19/15 02:12 AM
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I got this one heat treated today, I'll have to adjust it some, I'm glad I left some meat to do so..


Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6092564 12/20/15 12:22 AM
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Well, I've been through 4 locks and on my 2nd spring, the 1st one broke because I tweeked it, I was trying to copy a knife but I've learned is put it on paper then cut the pattern.

While I was waiting on the new lock and spring to cook I cut the front and back bolsters.

Hopefully it'll work this time.




Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6092582 12/20/15 12:38 AM
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I left a little more meat on the 2nd spring.


Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6092583 12/20/15 12:38 AM
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I left a little meat on the 2nd spring.


Last edited by Kev®; 12/20/15 12:40 AM.
Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Kev®] #6092637 12/20/15 01:31 AM
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Shape it a little more like this and re-check your hardness.





Your PM box is full also.

Re: a question for the folder makers.. [Re: Craig B] #6092670 12/20/15 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted By: Craig B
Shape it a little more like this and re-check your hardness.





Your PM box is full also.
I cleaned the box, I didn't realize it was full.

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