What is the difference in the high dollar ones and the less expensive ones? Amazon has a great price on some right now and I had to order them. 24" light bar, two led spotlight type lights and a wiring harness with switch, fuse, relay, wire, etc. all for around 70 bucks. Hope it isn't trash.

Seals are often the first thing to fail on the Amazon bars, take out all the screws and run some clear caulk and put all the screws back. Also, they don't cool as well, don't usually have as powerful of drivers which means less light output, but I doubt most people can really tell that except for maybe a difference in the light color.

I can tell you first hand there is a difference in light output. I bought some cheap cubes off Amazon for reverse lights for my truck. They are rated at 22W and 2200 lumens. The work fine and have last over a year. I chose these over the Rigid because of price. I recently had a buddy trade me some Ridgid cubes for a Pelican cooler. I put them on my duck boat. They are 15W and 1600 lumens. The difference is unreal. The ridgid is like flipping a switch on the sun. The Amazon not even close!

I got them for our quail rig (mule) we really dont need any more light than the factory headlights put out but we have a basket on front and it kinda blocks the factory lights a bit and cause a glare on the windshield (and one had went out), so I have been looking at doing this for a while but couldn't justify the cost, when I saw the price of these, I couldn't pass it up. I got the bar in the mail Saturday, it looks real nice and seems to be well built, other two lights and wiring harness will be here today.

Got em all mounted and wired yesterday, look good so far. It started raining on me before I could check them out in the dark. I will get more pics and post them later.

BTW, I can buy 10 of these for the cost of a Rigid.

For me it's all in what you want to use them for. I have a couple cheap ones and a couple of the expensive Rigid ones. For most of us that use them for offroad on the atv/utv, the cheap ones work fine. I would buy a couple of them (few extras) for when they do go out. The cheaper ones will eventually, but you are still usually cheaper than buying the expensive rigid ones. I also have the expensive rigid ones on my Jeep and DAMN they are bright. But even with the cheaper ones on the ATV, they are still really bright and have held up well to what we put them through so far.

Your comment about 10 for the price of a Rigid is the exact reason i won't buy a rigid for the ATV.

CC - would you mind posting the amazon link? Is the brand of light Cree? I've used Cree in the past and have been happy with the performance for the money.

Thanks

I got this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RV83...ailpage_o06_s00

And this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EA0Z...ailpage_o07_s00

And this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D1CQ...ailpage_o07_s00

Thank you!

What's the verdict on battery drainage?

Don't know. Ours wont be on if the engine isn't running, so it doesn't really matter. Probably switching to a red top Optima next year, if not sooner though. I thought the whole thing about LED's was that they don't drain much power?

Yeah. I'm looking to add a 22" bar in front @ a 7-8" bar in the rear on my 2012 Ranger 400. Just curious if I need to wire it all to a second battery or just wire it all to my main battery.

It's bang for the buck. That 120 watt light bar is still using 120 watts, but 120 watts of LED lighting throws more lumens that 120 watts of incandescent lighting.

120 watts divided by 12 volts means that any 120 watt 12 volt light pulls a steady 10 amps from its power source, in this case a battery.

Keep it running when the LED is burning and you'll be fine. Think about adding a secondary battery system that will power the light for the future.

If you are wanting to run the lights without engine running, I would look into a second battery.

I just ordered a tube of high temp silicone, I'm going to take my light bar apart and silicone everything like Big Pig mentioned. That's the biggest complaint I see in the reviews, water getting in. Still has a very good review rating.

The little spotlights I got are mounted out of the weather (up under the roof) so they should be good.

CC - Where did you get the basket on the front of your mule? Essex?

It was on it when my buddy bought it. Not sure. After having it, no way we could do without it now. I do wish it was 1 inch bigger so I could buy the little yeti for it but the igloo marine does good enough.

I want to put some LEDs on my hunting truck.. will probably go with some from Amazon
If I was racing in the desert at night I would definitely spring for the top of the line.
For a hunting truck? eh..

What's the reason for the wiring harness? Could you just put an in-line fuse in the wiring and get the same results?

I just felt better using the wiring harness with relay and inline fuse. I also added another inline fuse in the hot wire to the switch since it recommended it. Just made it easier for me and gave me peace of mind that I wasn't going to blow something up. Nice and neat too.

The inrush current of LEDs is similar to a motor load.. That's why you use a relay.

a 120 watt light bar, (which is typically about 90-110 lumens per watt, vs. 20-30 lumens per watt for incandescent loads), you'll draw about 10 amps @ 12 volts. The inrush current could be as high as 44 amps.
So yeah, if you're using a light bar, use a relay to do the switching. If you're running the little pods or cubes, then a relay is likely not necessary.

Looks good. Thanks for the info

Only been out with them once so far. But they worked great. Very bright.

Glad to read this...I am about to load up the Mobil Killin Machine with some and I dont mind paying extra to get some quality...Wingem had some good links also on some..

I don't mind paying a little extra for quality either. I wouldn't have even thought twice if the Rigids were double in price, but they aren't, they cost more than 10 times what I paid. Just can't justify that much price difference.