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Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6027656 11/13/15 06:13 PM
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The Sako-style extractor/ejector arrangement is one of the things that I like about the Howa 1500.

From what I gather, Howa found an older Sako design, the L579 to base the 1500 on. They gave it the same upper contour as a Rem 700, so 700 scope bases would fit. For this reason, people who have never seen the two actions side by side often end up thinking that the Howa is based upon the Remington model 700.

Hardly! rolleyes

Barrel thread on the Howa is 26x1.5mm. This is what throws a certain percentage of gunsmiths off. - Anything metric causes their brain to suddenly freeze up, making utter incompetents out of them.

These are the ones who come up with all of the inventive stories as to why you would never want to own a Howa.



The Howa is mildly popular in the USA, in Australia it a preferred design, and most of the gunsmiths there have worked out the mystery of metric threads so re-barreling a Howa is no big deal at all - And the brave Aussie gunsmiths do it all while standing upside-down, on the underside of the planet!

Last edited by charlesb; 11/13/15 06:30 PM.

Kind regards, charlesb


Re: next years build [Re: J.G.] #6027678 11/13/15 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
I've also had and seen plenty of Savages that are difficult to get into battery. The bolt ends up getting double stroked to get a round in the chamber, common occurance.


This is something that really bothers the heck out of me with my savage!


It's hell eatin em live
Re: next years build [Re: redchevy] #6027707 11/13/15 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted By: redchevy
Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
I've also had and seen plenty of Savages that are difficult to get into battery. The bolt ends up getting double stroked to get a round in the chamber, common occurance.


This is something that really bothers the heck out of me with my savage!


Happened to me in competition more times thatn I can count. Small targets, far away, wind and I was hitting. Then the dang thing won't chamber. Same scenario lined up on a sounder of hogs and bang


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Re: next years build [Re: charlesb] #6027715 11/13/15 06:46 PM
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Charles, I know enough about lathe operation to be dangerous, not enough to call myself a machinist. Isn't all ya gotta, do when threading metric, is engage the carriage when the thread dial indicatior hits the same number each pass?


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Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6027730 11/13/15 06:55 PM
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I'm in the process of having an 18.5" 6.5 creedmoor built for me as a general hunting rifle. I bought a Remington 700 in .308 from Academy for $379.00 and a Hawk Hill barrel from a buddy. I have acquired one of the Magpul 700 stocks and a customer in Windthorst is putting it together for me. I have less than $1000 in the materials. The truing of the action and having the barrel installed will cost a bit, but I'm coming away with the rifle I want. Still, this is about as cheap a psudo-custom build as I could come up with.
Thanks!!
Matt


The psycho nut bags have always been there. They just get better press now.
Take away their guns, they'll use knives. Take away their knives and they'll use sticks!!
Re: next years build [Re: J.G.] #6027784 11/13/15 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
Originally Posted By: redchevy
Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
I've also had and seen plenty of Savages that are difficult to get into battery. The bolt ends up getting double stroked to get a round in the chamber, common occurance.


This is something that really bothers the heck out of me with my savage!


Happened to me in competition more times thatn I can count. Small targets, far away, wind and I was hitting. Then the dang thing won't chamber. Same scenario lined up on a sounder of hogs and bang


Any remedy for this?


It's hell eatin em live
Re: next years build [Re: redchevy] #6027929 11/13/15 08:50 PM
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Tried everything under the sun. Even switched out the size of the detent ball under the extractor, no help.

Only remedy is to sell the Savage and buy a Tikka.


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Re: next years build [Re: J.G.] #6028111 11/13/15 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
Thank you Chris.

OP, go Tikka.

Right out of the box it will shoot very tight with the right hand load. It is the smothest cycling hardest ejecting mass produced action on the market IMO. I've had many Savages and I am done with them. The Tikka's stock, while not extremely stiff will still keep the barrel free floated, even on a bipod. You do not have to have a heavy barrel for a rifle to shoot tight. The heavy barrel is for high round count in a short time. The thin barrel will shoot just as well, but for less rounds in a short time. So you may need to pause to allow it to cool. I've worked up loads for Tikka 243, Tikka 7mm-08, and now Tikka .300 Win Mag, all unmodified rifles, and all shot less than 1 MOA.


Go with Tikka. I did at Fireman JG's recommendation (he has put a lot of rounds through his); 7MM-08. Couldn't be happier; Savage makes a good, accurate rifle rifle for the money, but the action doesn't compare to the Tikka.


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Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6028214 11/13/15 11:37 PM
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yeah im guessing im going with tikka, i dont wanna end up having those problems with a savage, sounds like a pain!! lol

Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6028446 11/14/15 01:31 AM
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Remington is the tried and true action. Lots of adcessories and smith work on them

Re: next years build [Re: J.G.] #6028495 11/14/15 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted By: FiremanJG
Charles, I know enough about lathe operation to be dangerous, not enough to call myself a machinist. Isn't all ya gotta, do when threading metric, is engage the carriage when the thread dial indicatior hits the same number each pass?


On my lathe, a Grizzly model 4003G Gunsmith's lathe, you can't use the thread dial normally when cutting metric threads, but must keep the half-nut manually engaged until the thread is complete. This, after swapping out a few gears in the headstock to get it ready for cutting metric threads in the first place, and consulting a chart in the manual to get the thread pitch set as needed.

All of this varies quite a bit, according to your lathe. Some do metric threads with less trouble than mine, some with more - and some will not do metric threads at all. This is one of those situations where you must consult the manual, and with other users of the same equipment. In many cases, there will be a forum for users of your lathe, where you can find hints and kinks to make the work go more easily. Sometimes there will be fixes developed to make the equipment do things it was not originally designed to do. Having some cold-rolled bar stock around to practice on is nice.

I have gotten to be expert at doing certain kinds of web-searches, including finding obscure forums to join. I learned about web searching as a religious scholar, but the same search techniques work for other things. A lot of it revolves around trying different search phrases, different ways of asking for the same information. Persistence in the face of boredom pays off, here.

Another significant resource is YouTube videos, and again this is something where diligent, careful search technique can drag out some amazing information.

If your lathe will not do metric threads, this is a situation where you might farm out the threading operation to a local machine shop, or to another gunsmith. I have developed a personal "Bible" of other gunsmiths I work with who do jobs that I am not equipped for, or do not know how to do. Tomorrow for example, a guy is coming by with an autoloading pistol that has a scratched slide. He wants it re-blued, which I am not set up to do at all - so I will farm that work out. Finding other smiths to work with is a trial and error process, but it really pays off as you never have to turn a customer away. In a rural setting like mine, this is important as the next gunsmith is over 100 miles away.

A better long-term solution if your lathe will not do metric threads and you intend to do that work regularly is to consider a second lathe just for that task, or maybe buying a new machine and trade in or sell your present lathe. When I lived in D/FW that kind of thing was very easy to do, but out here in the desert it's a big deal to get machine tools and tooling of any kind. The only break that I get is that Odessa is only 125 miles away, and it is an industrial town.

Many gunsmiths want to do machine work, but I was backwards on that. - I was a custom job-shop machinist who decided to give up the machinists profession and be a gunsmith. I did this back when Texas had a sudden influx of machinists come in from the rust belt, back in the 1980's due to some economic disturbance they had, up north. - And I got out of the machinists profession with the coveted "ten fingers" safety award!

Last edited by charlesb; 11/14/15 02:12 AM.

Kind regards, charlesb


Re: next years build [Re: charlesb] #6028562 11/14/15 02:37 AM
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Ruger has there new pr gun and for about 12-1300 dollars you could get into a gun that already has all it needs...I've personally never shot one but there have been a lot of big names playing w them and they have recieved high marks...I've even been kicking around the idea if getting one in 6.5 cm to see what all the fuss is about

Re: next years build [Re: charlesb] #6028566 11/14/15 02:41 AM
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My old lathe was grandad's. It's labeled Craftsman, but I think someone told me South Bend probably built it. It really needs some attention. But I have no intention of turning barrels myself. Heck I barely have enough patience to get a piece of stock centered to .001" in the four jaw. My use is steel fab, not the precision of gunsmithing. I am always curious about how things are made and how things are performed. I appreciate your reply.


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Re: next years build [Re: Nighteagle] #6028570 11/14/15 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted By: Nighteagle
Ruger has there new pr gun and for about 12-1300 dollars you could get into a gun that already has all it needs...I've personally never shot one but there have been a lot of big names playing w them and they have recieved high marks...I've even been kicking around the idea if getting one in 6.5 cm to see what all the fuss is about


^^Very good suggestion^^

One stop shop for the rifle. All it needs is rings, scope, and ammo.


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Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6028608 11/14/15 03:08 AM
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Here's the Weatherby Vanguard chassis rifle... They go for around 1400 bucks.


Vanguard Modular Chassis Rifle
It only comes in .223 or .308 though.

Last edited by charlesb; 11/14/15 03:08 AM.

Kind regards, charlesb


Re: next years build [Re: eddie4529] #6029127 11/14/15 04:17 PM
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I have 3 factory Savage Centerfire rifles-a Model 12 FLVSS in 223,a Model 110 FLP in 25/06,and a model 10 FCP in 308.Plus the others that I've built off Savage actions,two 6.5 Creedmoors,a 7mm-08,a 6.5-06,and a 300 WM.
I shoot quite a bit with all of these rifles and have never had the issues that you guy's have had with Savage rifles.The only issue that I've had is with my older Staggered feed rifles after I removed and reinstalled the magazine boxes on the actions was a chambering problem.That's an easy fix,because the mag box gets bent slightly when it is removed/installed.A few minutes tweaking the feed lips with needle nosed pliers and it's fixed.

I'm a casual shooter not a competition shooter like FiremanJG,but my rifles have never failed me in any way in the field or on a bench.My shooting has at times!

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