hey folks just asking for advice and opinions. I have a 270 mark II ruger with paddle stock. I want to put a green laminated stock on it from boydes. other than float it to barrel what else should I do for accurate rifle. the rife has a very light trigger. around two pounds a Zeus scope 3/9 , I have found Sierra 130 grain boatails to be very accurate in this rifle.I reload and have a recipe. I plan on neck sizing case to see if I improve groups.so far I have FLS to use in multiple rifles. do yal have any more suggestions. I plan on this being a blind rifle that will be well keep with my new stock. want to get all the most accurate rifle I can.

I want it to be accurate and still a hunting rifle not bench gun

It comes down to how much money you want to spend. In my view, level one would be to get a gunsmith square up the action, bed the action, and re crown the muzzle. That approach worked real well for my Sako 270. Level two would be level one plus a custom barrel and maybe a new trigger. That worked extremely well for my Ruger 220, Tikka 260 and Ruger Hawkeye 223.

It's only money...

rifle already has great trigger. am new to anymore than hunting accurate rifles.what is done when squaring actions and bedding

Discuss your options with a good gunsmith. Tell him what you want and he'll walk you through what can be done for what price. In most cases, I've taken the simple approach of finding a reputable gunsmith, taking the rifle to him and telling him that I want him to turn this into a real shooter. So far that has worked real well, though costs have varied considerably. The 220 was not expensive to tune up and rebarrel, but that was years ago. The 270 was even less expensive, since I stayed with the Sako barrel. The 260 was about $1000 or so with the work and the new barrel. The 223 was about $1200, with new barrel. The forum guys can point you to a good gunsmith near you. Horizon is great, but might be a long drive for you. ChadTRG42 has a really good guy, and he's in Lewisville. Rifles, Inc did my 220 and I think he's now around San Antonio.

thanks I know a very good smith sounds like time to talk to him. not a good year for me to start a expensive project. I work in oil field related job. am working but has been slow.

The Boyd's stocks are really nice for the price. If you go that route, make sure the barrel is free floated and either learn to bed it or have a smith bed it for you. It will need to be bedded for top accuracy and consistency. Since the trigger is already good, I'd say you have the basic set-up ready for some decent accuracy.

FL vs. neck sizing, it's a personal choice if you want to mess with all that. If you have a load already that shoots really well with FL sizing the cases, you will need to increase the powder charge some to equal the pressures when neck sizing. You will run into tight chambering issues with some of the neck sized cases. I don't neck size anymore for this reason. Since it's a hunting rifle, I don't see you gaining any increase in accuracy over FL sizing it. Get the gauges to measure a slight bump in the shoulder to do a partial FL sizing, and this will help work the case less.

I have a M77 MKII .270win that will shoot quite well with surprisingly little work done to it; and honestly it has shot under 1" since it came out of the box and will do so with every factory and hand load I have tried in it except for the 140gr. Hornady SST which this rifle simply DOES NOT LIKE.

This rifle originally came with the factory laminated wood stock and I switched that out to a Hogue stock and Timney trigger.....

As ChadTRG42 said - I would simply free float the barrel and have the stock glass bedded and I think you will be surprised at the accuracy you get from that alone.

My rifle seems to like 140gr bullets in particular and the group below is full length sized case, 140gr. Hornady BTSP, RE22 powder 1 full grain below max.

dang dee seems the rep rugers have for bad groups may not be deserved. funny my ruger shot the 140 grain hornady ammo all over the place to, in factory ammo mine luved 130 grain rem cor loc better than anything. as said I have a load with a SIERRA gameking 130 boatail that I can shoot 1 and 1/4 to 1 and 1/2 group with now, hope to get them down to at least sub MOA, CHAD I will bed and float new stock and see what happens group wise,i to questioned the effect neck sizeing would have. my mentor in reloading is a pro neck sizeing fellow. I reloaded my first round in 2013 so an fairly new at it, am learning some things are ford chevy and blond vs dark haired things. chad do you recommend bedding myself or getting a smith, am fairly handy with tools am a machineist and millwright, and would luv to learn the art, thanks guys and good hunting and shooting.

and dee I have a factory out of box ruger predator 243, that luvs hornady BTSP, first five shot group out of box at 100 yards you could cover with a quarter. seems horndy BTSP are very accurate bullets

I would free float the barrel then shoot it. If the accuracy is good then quit there, if accuracy is bad then I would bed it. Then I would shoot it again, if the accuracy is good quit there, if it is still not where you want it I would recrown and true the bolt.

Accurizing a rifle is one of those things you can take to extreme limits but personally I don't see the point if it shoots fine with something as simple as free floating the barrel.

As for FL vs Neck sizing brass, I actually found that the FL brass shot more accurate out of my .243, shoulders bumped back .002. I don't know if that conflicts with other data, it is just what I experienced. From what I have seen reloading, 1 of the most important things someone can do for brass is to deburr the flash hole, I noticed tighter groups after doing that.

I'd say give bedding a try yourself. You can watch many youtube videos on how to do it and prep the stock and action. The bedding compounds even come with instructions. I know many shooters that learned how to do it by bedding their own rifles. I would not feel comfortable or relying on a decent mating of the new stock to your action by just dropping it in without bedding it. There WILL be gaps and pressure points. Where those gaps and pressure points are, could easily cause some consistency issues. If the goal is top accuracy out of a factory rifle, bedding it is the way to go.

Neck sizing is up to you. You WILL have to keep a closer eye on your brass and do some chamber checking once you have your ammo loaded. I have been down the road on neck sizing, and it's not worth it to me. But I do know a lot of shooters that do this. You just have to make sure you can still chamber a loaded round after neck sizing. There will be some that chamber tight or won't chamber at all. These rounds that chamber tight or won't chamber will have to be taken apart and reloaded. So, I'd rather have 100% reliable chambering each time, and go the FL bump or FL sizing.