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Bow help - cam, no cam, etc #5871060 08/10/15 12:04 AM
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Texican Offline OP
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Can someone please explain to me the pros and cons of Cam, No Cam, SoloCam, etc. bows? Was looking at some Mathews, but not sure where to start.

Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5871116 08/10/15 12:37 AM
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With another brand. But let's see.
Dual cam is two non round wheels with modules and they have to be timed correctly to roll over at the same time and work right. The string normally lines up running center of riser and limbs. Some people think that is bad. So they went to solo cam. One cam and one round wheel. No timing required. String doesn't run centered and can be an issue when tuning your bow. No cam is two round wheels and is not really new but is pretending to be. It is slow and top heavy.
I suggest shooting all of them. There are so many little things that are different not only between bows of the same brand but different designs within the same brand you are doing yourself a disservice if you don't shoot several to see what feels best for you.


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Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5871565 08/10/15 12:51 PM
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Shoot them all and see what you like best. The issue with dual cams used to be that they wouldn't stay in time, that seems to no longer be an issue with all the advances in technology now. Solo cam did away with timing issues and for many people that was and still is the way to go. No Cam is basically a round cam that has an off center axle so it does still cam over some, the only real benefit I saw from test shooting the No Cam was that there was very little cam over making it a very smooth drawing bow


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Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5871602 08/10/15 01:27 PM
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Single cam bows though do not have two cams that can get out of sync still can degrade in performance if not tuned/timed. On many of these bows there are "timing" holes or marks for the cable. When the cable is within those marks the bow shoots at its best because the cam rotates the amount and has the start and end points in that rotation it was designed for.

Dual cam bows can get out of time usually from string / cable stretch and a twist or two in the cables usually get it back in time pretty easily. If these bows are not in time it is pretty easy to feel when at the back wall it will feel mushy. You can also see that a dual cam bow is in or out of time by watching the draw stops they need to contact the end point at the same time.

The No Cam bow reminds me of 1970 an early 80s technology with modern components.

Last edited by kmon1; 08/10/15 01:48 PM.

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Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5871778 08/10/15 03:36 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I am going to look closer, but wanted an idea of "what to expect" from each. And maybe I am going about it the wrong way, but I am wanting to start off with a good bow that will last a while (while I learn) versus getting a cheap one and upgrading later. Any reason I should avoid this approach?

Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5871783 08/10/15 03:45 PM
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Good approach, but do yourself a favor and shoot several from different manufacture before selecting that bow. Hoyt, Mathews, Elite, Prime, Obsession, Bowtech, Bear, PSE and others all make some great bows.


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Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5872792 08/11/15 02:17 AM
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Figure out what your budget is, and shoot every bow you can in that price range. Buy the one you like the best.


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Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5876680 08/13/15 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted By: Texican
Thanks for the feedback. I am going to look closer, but wanted an idea of "what to expect" from each. And maybe I am going about it the wrong way, but I am wanting to start off with a good bow that will last a while (while I learn) versus getting a cheap one and upgrading later. Any reason I should avoid this approach?

Nothing wrong with starting with a great bow if it is something you will stick with. I went through 4 different bows before I landed with the one I have now and plan to keep for a long time. When you first start out it is hard to know exactly what you like in a bow. I chose to buy a couple of year old high end bows starting out because they tend to lose about half there value when you take them home. I've had two short axle to axle bows, then I went to a longer axle bow and now am in the middle. I settled with a bowtech 360 because I found that I could go down to a 60 pound draw and still get better performance than most 70 pound bows out there. Good luck in your search.

Re: Bow help - cam, no cam, etc [Re: Texican] #5884794 08/18/15 10:20 PM
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I just went thru this. I have been shooting selfbows and longbows sense 1993. Taken elk, bou, deer hogs etc with them. But I'm tired of messing with all that and I want to extend my range for western biggame animals. Tired of watching bull elk at 40 yards and just stand there with my bow up my butt wishing. Soooo, I just shot about all you can shoot at the shops. I got my 18 year son a Mathews no-cam a few months ago. It, along with Bowtech prodigy and Elite synergy were the final three. (I eliminated the Hoyts, Primes, other elites, PSE etc) Let me say this....that no cam is the smoothest bow on the release of any bow I shot. Hands down a winner. Prime actually had the second smoothest release I shot but I did not like the draw or feel in my hands so it was eliminated. The Prodigy and Elite Synergy were right behind that prime as far as smoothest shooting bows. Both felt great in my hand and both drew very well. I eliminated the no cam ONLY because I wanted to stay different than my kiddo. Although the no cam had a vastly different draw than the other 2, it still felt good on the draw. So, it came down to Prodigy or Synergy. I went with what we were hearing....the quietest bow of the two....the Synergy. Speed was not important to me as all these bows felt like rocket launchers compared to what I have been shooting a long time. Accuracy and silence...to me kills game. Always has and always will.

But you gotta go shoot them all to see what fits YOU.

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