My son is headed off to college this fall so I will not have a helper most of the time.

I'm looking to build a blind as light as possible without using a tent. I'm thinking sheet metal would be easiest to work with for a one off deal. I think I can get it pre cut with window and door cut outs, Galvalume any color I want, so not painting. I'm looking use 2x2's in all four corners, as well as (2) horizontally for Deerview windows, and around the door. I'm thinking I will also make it so I can break it down to move it, so actually I will have two 2x2's in the corners.

Let me know if you have similar experience and/or recommendations.

I did something very similar with mine. Same framing only I used coragated tin. I did 4x6 and the blind can be moved with two guys in and out of a pickup or Ranger. My oldest is ten years now and the paint is slightly faded but other than that it's in the same shape as the day I put it out.

Last one I did I used vinyl house siding. It doesn't get as hot as a metal structure and still pretty light.
http://texashuntingforum.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/5208956/New_deer_stand_covering#Post5208956

R panel, or corrugated tin will be stronger, more rigid

Tpyically your panels are made from "E" Grade coils, and your sheetmetal or trim is made from "D" Grade coils. "D" grade coils are a softer material than the "E" Grade coils. Both will stand up to time, but panels ("E" Grade) wont dent / bend as easily.

So for those that put their blinds together in the field do you caulk them up real heavy? And if you do does that make it too much of a hassle to move it around by breaking it down?

You could try using a weather stripping at the tear down joints. I caulk my permanent blind to be bug and weather tight, should still be the same for yours I would think.

Use inside closures if you want to seal off the ribs. They are pretty cheap, last time I looked, I believe my dad sold them for .80/ea.

I built mine using 2x2's for the frame, corners, top-bottom plate, top-bottom of window, exterior 1/2" plywood, painted inside & out two coats exterior paint. Take down on 6 & 8' stand. I'm 65 and do all by my self. Roof is 2x2 frame, 5/8 plywood with rubber material over.

I have converted to a different train of thought. After years of fighting wasps, we noticed that the less air-tight the blind was, the fewer wasp problems we had. On the last couple of blinds that I built, I used R-Panels on the roof with NO closures. I also made no special effort to seal up all of the gaps/spaces that were created by the design. It provides just enough draft to make the wasps uncomfortable. We have a few in those blinds at the beginning of the year, but nothing like our attempts at "wasp proof" blinds.

I use The Blynd 4x4. It is so simple to deal with. mine weighs 63 lbs and is very comfortable since there is room to stand & stretch.

A pest-strip keeps the bugs out during the off season. And, a bug bomb on the season start up takes care of everything in between.

Use r panel or u panel the sheet metal will require more braces if you use the typical stuff they make edge metal out of its really flimsy. I have one made out of the sheet metal and when the wind blows it pops.