I just committed to a new lab pup. I'm so excited and nervous it's unreal. A 51 year old man shouldn't get this wound up over a dog but for some reason I am. Studying training videos and hoping I don't screw this up. Pedigree and background look good. I asked all the questions I knew to for what I'm looking for. Messed up and didn't get one I was looking at earlier this year. Guess I'll find out if I'm up to the task after years without one.

Hey! At least you're not like me, I know I would screw it up so I'm taking my pup to a pro.

My friend, who is also taking a pup from this litter, did that and the guy had not done a good job. First shot on a hunt the dog broke and ran off. Got killed on the highway a mile away. So be sure it's a real "pro".

Was recommended by Bill Oxner, unless the dog is a dog, his recommendation is all I need. Also Duckedup has his sister pointing and holding.

what is the pedigree

I'll see if I can't get a scan of it.

SHR Soggy Bottom Brown Drake CGC



photo image_zpssgpp99jp.jpg

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Callname: Drake
Gender: Male
Color: YLW
coat Genotype: Yellow - Hidden black and Choc - eeBb
Whelp Date: 8/9/2012
Owner: Lauren Daniel
Breeder: Earl Carrell

OFA Hips: LR-210699G24M-NOPI (Good)
Eye CERF: LR-EYE6389/24M-VPI
OFA Elbow: LR-EL64596M24-NOPI(Normal)
CNM: LR-CNM14-313-M-NOPI(clear)
EIC: D14-033430-1(clear)
UKC Reg: R253328
AKC reg: SR74557403
AKC DNA: #V740183



**Want to check some of the health clearances of this dog: Official OFA Web site (opens in new window & search based on Dog's name)***
CNM -- CNM Website


Pedigree:


SHR Soggy Bottom Brown Drake CGC Soggy Bottom Boomer ( YLW )
Bear Hug II ( CHOC )
Black Beaver Duke ( BLK )
Ginger My Lady III ( CHOC )
Hips: OFA49G
Kelley's Texas Harley ( YLW )
Texas Thunder II ( YLW )
Casey Sunshine II ( YLW )
Carrells Koko Brown ( CHOC )
Carrel's Texas Tank ( YLW )
Leo's Lucky Lefty ( YLW )
Thompson's Chocolate Kiss ( CHOC )
Texas Sheeza Keeper Bontia ( CHOC )
Texas Gunner ( CHOC )
Hips: OFA24E
Elbows: OFEL24
Hatch's Casey Bonita ( BLK )


This is the sire. Let me know if I'm missing something. Ignorance is not bliss.

I have been informed that a dog of 2.5 yoa should have accomplished more than a SHR rating. Let's pretend I don't know squat about field or hunt trial things. Opinions?

So are you getting a pup out of the 2.5 year old or is he the dog you're getting? I'm not following.

Never mind, I saw your post on the other forum. Based on what I read there and what I have read here I will comment. It all comes down to dollars and cents and it is all in the eye of the beholder. What you might call a great meat dog the next guy may hate because they lack style, bottom, and desire, where as you might look at his dog and think they are way too high drive. One thing I do know is that you can put whoa into a dog but you can't put go into them if its not there. Most of the problems that I see are because of the bottom line and its a shame. The honest truth is unless you are getting that pup for next to nothing you can do way better as far as pedigree which is all that you can go on when buying a puppy. I don't care what anyone tells you, you could have watched the sire and dam both work and love them and the breeding might not click. You could take two calm dogs and throw a maniac or you might throw a dog with no brains or desire. The only sure bet is to buy a started dog. Any puppy is a crap shoot but you sure increase the odds by buying proven pedigrees and unfortunately that takes $$.

I agree with Tony. I wouldn't take a pup from that breeding. The only thing an SHR means is the dog can do two single marked retrieves on land (not to exceed 75 yards) and two single marked water retrieves (not to exceed 60 yards).

Some pretty good advice on this thread. There are puppy ads all over the place from all over the country. I am sure there are many good litters close to home but shipping a pup isn't that difficult either.

Also like Tony mentioned if drive/energy are a primary factor then buying a started dog will give you a better idea of what you are getting overall.

Yeah and the dams pedigree shows no dogs with any type of trialing. I talked with my partner today and he feels the same. His point though was the last dog he bought the pedigrees were fantastic with lots of master hunters and the sire a grand champion or something and yet the dog was a dud. So I guess it doesn't mean anything but I can't forget the advice of Cheech and Chong.

You can get a deal or dud from any litter no matter what the pedigrees look like. However when buying a pup you have nothing else to base your decision on. Personally i will buy a started dog without a stacked pedigree but not a puppy.

Hey Passthru, we are in the same boat. I have owned two black labs in my life. The first was awesome I was newly married, got lucky on the pup and we went to hunt tests and hunted for many years. My second was from the same blood, by this time, I had a daughter and could not take the time to train her, so she was a great pet.

I just bought my 3rd black lab from a member here. She is an awesome dog, great instincts and drive. I am taking her every Saturday to a "puppy" class to work on obedience. I'm 63 and finding I don't have the time or energy I used to, so I may not be able to get "Jessie" to the hunt test point. I hope to get her to retrieve some long marks and get here in some Started, Jr. tests just for her. She deserves it.
There are two great breeders here Tioga Retrievers and Crumpler Kennels. Their dogs would be great for you.

Jessie was the last female from her litter, I almost waited too long and almost missed getting her.

My hands are chewed up and bloodied from her puppy teeth, she gets me up a couple times a night to pee..all the great puppy sht. It will be worth it.

Wouldn't mind a dog from one of them but I am in the less than a grand to spend on a dog. Even at $600 to $800 I am paying three to four times what I've spent in the past. Some of the dogs I see in the two and three grand range need to wash dishes and vacuum the living room if I spend that much.

I guess I just don't understand the logic. You say you are 51 years old. How much did you pay for your first car? How much was a gallon of gas when you graduated high school? Surely in 51 years on this earth you have figured out that you get what you pay for. Surely you wouldn't walk into a dealership and expect to buy a good vehicle for what you paid for your first one. The cost of a puppy is a drop in the bucket compared to what you will spend over the life of the dog. I have seen some lucky dog owners but lightening doesn't strike the same place twice. Bargain shopping for a dog almost always ends up with heartache.

I paid $500 for a 1973 Dodge with a 225 slant 6 and more miles than the odometer could count. Next was a '74 Pinto I gave $600 for and a 76 Mustang 2 I gave $800 for. I worked on those cars to keep them going until they completely dropped but I got my wife through college working two and three jobs and worked that way until we were out of debt. That's why I can afford to retire at 50 years old. Although I work part time for play money my income well handles my needs because we have been smart in our spending decisions.

It may be hard for you to understand but some of us live in the world where we have a budget. We live in a world where a seriously sick or injured dog cannot have thousands of dollars spent on it and would have to be put down. Hard to do that on a dog that you spend a couple three grand on.

I'm not going to run field trials or guide hunts and sell pups and recoup monies spent. I'm going to shoot a few doves, shoot a few ducks and work the dog in the yard, in a field and in the lake for enjoyment. That may be worth thousands of dollars to you but not to me. But then my truck didn't cost $50,000 and I live in the same small house I bought 27 years ago because it's paid for and I hate to be in debt.

A dog is a companion yes. But it is a tool to use in the field just like a boat or shotgun. I can use a Craftsman wrench and repair anything I need to repair just like anyone else can with Proto or Mack tool. I kill birds with a Beretta because it's less than half the price of a Benelli and it gets the job done.

To me it's a choice I'm comfortable with.

You might check out DFW lab rescue, they get some great dogs, I was working with them but there were no pups available .

I was the same as you, I didn't want to spend allot, hell in 1987, I found a litter in Tyler Texas the lady was dying to get rid of them. I paid $250 for Casey, she ended up 2 legs shy of her Master Hunter Title. She was out of a great breeding wit Honcho blood. I got lucky.

I paid $500 for Millie in 2003 , she ended up a pet and fair hunter, not her fault, I couldn't put the time or money in her training.

And now $800 for Jesse, we are in obedience now, so far so good but only time will tell what kind of hunter she will be, she damn sure has the DRIVE.

You know what you can spend, keep looking on other forums, you will find a pup.

Here is The Outlaw Jesse James

She's got more energy than me, she's making me you again, she has already taken over the house but it's okay, she's my buddy

Whatever pup you decide on budget $25/ month for insurance. It covers almost everything and then your dog becoming sick or injured won't have to be part of the equation.

Seriously? They have insurance for dogs? Wow. That's cool!

Yes Sir. And its good too. Probably better than people insurance. Everyone I have encountered that has used it has loved it. You can also take out a personal articles policy on your dog that covers theft or accidental death. The only thing it doesn't cover is the dog getting lost or you personally shooting your dog. There are definitely ways to protect your investment.

Which plan and company are you using?

That would make a difference in budget considerations.