Chad, I don't understand your post. Are you saying that most people skip the turn/half turn step?

Just keep your rifle next to you when sizing brass and chamber check your brass to make sure it chambers.

I hate to disagree with knowledgable folks, but that advice to screw the die in to touch and then screw it in another half to full turn just isn't good for all rifles and all chambers. If your rifle has a tight chamber, then the advice is good. But, if you have a loose or large factory chamber, Chad's advice may well cause you to move the shoulder too far back for your chamber. That will lead to case head separation. You need to size it 'enough' to chamber easily, but not too much if you want max case life.

If you have a factory barrel, I'd suggest that the brass be neck or partial resized and fired until the case does not chamber easily. Then full length size (bump the shoulder back) enough that the case chambers easily, and then leave the sizing die lock ring set right there forever.

I have a 220 with a Douglas barrel with a real tight chamber. Full length sizing as Chad suggested still leaves a somewhat snug fit of the brass in the chamber. I have a 223 that had a factory barrel, and full length sizing as Chad suggested caused case head separations. So...the amount of sizing depends in large part on the size of your chamber.

Find a mentor, even if you have to offer a bribe, good meal, tickets to a game, fifth of whatever, box of cigars, mow the fellows yard if necessary. You will be money ahead when it is hands-on learning rather than reading "snug it tight". Sort of like making love, you can read about it until you go blind but when the lights go out an experienced partner can/will help.

I think it has already been addressed but notes or records can help avoid problems, I just make a list of the processes and check it off when complete. When I pick up a container after a delay I reference the list and keep going.