Yep, me too. Hoppe's for solvent or Butch's http://www.butchsboreshine.com/home/

So you use one thing for the few moving parts and something else for all the exterior? I'd rather have one thing to do both.

CLP

Coppered up rifle barrel needs more than just CLP, Butches or Sweet's.
Butches will melt carbon and plastic wadding in shotgun barrels also.

If you tried Renaissance Wax out, you'd quit oiling the exterior of your guns too.

Far superior.

I have zero interest in waxing a gun with a paste. Wiping it down with oil is quick and simple.

Mine are either cerakoted or rattle can job dont oil much either

Renaissance Wax was developed for use by museums. The NRA museum is one of those that use it. It is a micro-crystalline wax, nothing like the paste waxes we are all familiar with.

If you haven't tried it, then you have no clue about it. I was skeptical about using a wax on a firearm too, right up until I gave it a try.

If you feel better using oil, that's no skin off of me. - Just trying to pass on a good tip.

When I was a kid in the 60's, I had an Uncle and cousin who had Remington 1100 shot guns. They never used anything but 3-In-One oil on them, and those guns always looked beautiful.

I use it on all my wood stocks and like how it improves the grip when handling them, which is the exact opposite when using other waxes. Expensive but very much worth it.

It will also make a gun with lesser quality bluing take on the luster of a more expensive gun.

Thanks

I use breakfree or WD-40 specialist

One of the best test comparisons in depth I have read, is at the link below, you may be surprised at the results. I have posted this here before,but cant recall where

Long read, but worth it, hey, has photos too

http://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cleaning/91566-results-gun-care-product-evaluation.html

Texas Dan provided the same link. It is a good read

+1 Kudos to the man the did the extensive experiment as well as the report. That will help me with many more things besides firearms.

I appreciate the kudos, but must admit I just saved it from an earlier post by another forum member.

Today I discovered that the foaming spray-on oil for cutting threads on pipe will bring out carbon from a barrel after Hoppe's gives you a clean patch.

I tried it just out of curiosity - and each pass of the patch got progressively darker until it was pitch black with newly-removed carbon. (five passes)

I've never seen anything bust up carbon like this sulfur-based thread cutting oil.

Give it a try, if you've got a can of it around. Amazing stuff!

Note that I used Hoppes afterward, followed by a dry patch to get the thread-cutting oil out of the barrel.

Sounds it might be too aggressive at cleaning a gun barrel. Some copper fouling is considered necessary to maintain accuracy.

I'll buy a jar and try it out.

Naw... That's an old wives tale.

I get (5-shot) groups like this:



- From barrels like this - all the time.



I didn't notice the threading lube removing any copper though, just lots of carbon.

All I use now is Corrosion X.

Wonder if some copper, to fill in those lateral tooling marks, would tighten it up even more?

Have you experimented?

how many rounds does it take to foul a clean rifle back in? and do you foul in with the same ammo you sight in with?

They're all different. I've seen 10 to 30. Each of my rifles only has one load. But if you had the components to make foulers, go for it! Especially if you can run cheaper bullets for foulers. If you had a good zero, cleaned it, then shoot again, and your zero is off, give it some shots before you go messing with the old zero. It may settle back into where it was.

The button rifling chatter is actually functional, reducing friction significantly. Letting carbon or copper accumulate would negate the advantage, there. One of the things that the chatter does for you is to keep the part that contacts the bullet clean longer, as the crud tends to accumulate down in the chatter marks where it won't affect the bullet.

It looks pretty alarming, but every barrel I've had that looked that way has been especially accurate.

These are barrels that respond well to a careful break-in and regular, proper cleaning. You can see the polishing effect in the image. The crests that the bullet rides upon are glass-smooth after break-in. You wind up with around 18" of contact area in a 24" barrel.

I've noticed that regular, smooth barrels like a hammer-forged barrel for example tend to develop high/drag spots from smears of copper, and the accuracy changes much more between a clean and fouled condition. They look better inside, at least when clean, but I've never had one shoot as well.

I've never heard of most of the products in the link and this topic has become the obvious proof sometimes some people need to find something more productive to do with their time.