So I took my first long range shot last weekend at a Mouflan 279 yds away. I have a simple duplex VX-II sighted in dead on at 100yds. (All of our feeders are 90-100 yds away) I was guessing at the hold over point on the mouflan and shot over him. I held about 4 inches over the back. Ive been searching for a chart to show where I should have aimed but can find one. Anyone have a website or know what the drop compensation should have been at 300yds or 200 yds? I shoot Remington Corelok 115gr.

Computer generated charts are just rough estimates with variables - air density, wind speed, wind direction, and distance, being the major ones- which need confirmation on a range - assuming you have an accurate known bullet velocity, not the marketing hype off the back of the box.

Best practice is to hang targets and document what your rifle, scope, and ammo combo really does at fixed known distances.

Recheck with different temperatures consistently using the same ammo, as velocities drop as temperatures drop, sometimes substantially depending on the powder used. The change in velocity can and will alter elevation and windage corrections, more so the longer the distance.

Keep records, and then prepare a summary table and tape it to your rifle on the side for reference.

Importantly, limit shots to those that you KNOW you can make i.e. know the required data and have practiced.

Note table taped to left side of rifle for reference by right-handed shooter:

This chart will show zero at 200 yards.

http://www.cpcartridge.com/25-06b.htm

Punch in your info

http://m.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator

According to Remington's site, the 25-06 Rem CoreLokt Ultra 115gr, if sighted .6 inches high at 100yds (0 at 150), will drop 5.1" at 250 yards, and 9.9" at 300. Are you sure it was over him, and not under? I would think if you're dead on at 100yds, your drop at 280 would be somewhere between 10-15 inches, so 4 inches of hold-over should have been about right.

Guesses causes misses.

The ballistics calculators are just the starting point for practice to put it on paper and obtain more accurate data.

Stick to known data, and practice - regularly.

The calculators are nice and accurate but only to the point that the data input is accurate. The best method is to shoot those ranges to know for sure. Having a Chronograph helps a lot to know the velocity to plugin to the calculator. I have seem same model rifles have a 200fps difference with the same ammo, handloaded and factory.

Well said. I've got the tested ballistics for my two most used rifles taped to the bottom of my binoculars for easy reference.

I shoot a 115 ballistic silvertip out of my 25.06
Sighted in for 100 yds.

200yds -2.8 in

300yds -10.6 in

400yds -24.2 in

500yds -44.7 in

How are you fellas correcting for elevation in inches?

Why no discussion of windage correction?

they'll get you close enough at that distance to be within 1-2" +/-, which is still vitals. That's about the range where B/C is starting to take over.

We are assuming that his barrel is 24 and not 26 or vise versa and that the corloks are loaded to the ml that Remington says they are. And he isn't using tall or short mounts.

Those sheep aren't that big 4" hold over could of been more like 6-8"

I took a doe in east texas couple years ago did the same thing but using 100tsx's... shot over first shot...second shot spined her at 400

You just missed if what you are saying is correct. Depending on barrel length you would be anywhere between 10-12" low at 300 with that set up. If you aimed 4" over his back then you shoulda hit him, albeit of a high shot you woulda hit him. Personally I would sight that gun in at 1.5" high at a hundred and hold on hair to 300. I also highly reccomend that you take the time to go to a shooting range that has 200 and 300 yard ranges and practise shooting at those distances to build confidence in your gun/shooting. It takes some practise to get good at shooting 300 yards especially from real world shooting positions and under time restraints, though in the labratory the ballistics might say its 10.2" low at 300 add in any shooter error at 300 and its a clean miss, much more so than at 100.

Here you go

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

Great advice here on this topic. One other thing you might try since you have the duplex reticle is "Maximum Point Blank Range". Tons of articles and videos on the subject. Works well with a hunting rifle set up as yours. Basically like AlaskaCub stated it is the method of sighting your scope in high at 100 yards so there is no need for holdover out to your desired distance or the distance you feel comfortable making a clean ethical shot. Of course practice is needed and you need to know how the particular bullet you have chosen will perform. Most ballistic charts are just simply raw data and are a starting point but should be the averages. Of course like jeffbird previously said this does not correct for windage. I personally sight my 30-06 (hunting rifle) 2.5" high at 100 and feel good out to 300. Just my 2 cents

Almost all of the reloading manuals have a trajectory chart w/Bullet Co eff. ect and there is an excellent article in the American Hunter on Long Range Shooting, drop ect..but you violated the first primiss of all shooters on the shot..keep it on hair..first shot..Your rifle would have taken the animal cleanly had you only elevated slightly as you are under 300 yds and most rifles on drop about a ft at that range when zero'd at 100 yds.. At least you are concerned..now get somewhere that you
can setup w/exact range and a good rest and practice..you have a
good caliber weapon for up to 500 yds if you are proficient..Don

figure out your scope features. For a cpl of my rifles that end up having almost identical drop, I can cheat with them with a 300yd zero. It puts 400yds being holding crosshairs on top of a deer's back and 500yds would be putting the point of the post on top of their back. That pretty much lets you have a ruler in your head on how many inches you;re actually looking at down range.

I like this one. But only gives readings for Winchestor ammo, which is usually what I use anyway.

Winchestor Ballistics Calculator

Why the mats on the ground? Are they afraid to get dirty?

Shooting mats are commonly used by competitors in tactical and high power matches, as much of the shooting is from the prone position.

I just do what my dad always taught me. Sight in at 1.5-2" high at 100 yds and aim at the center of the vitals up to 300 yds. Has worked for me ever since. Just my .02

Been using the same spreadsheet for a while. Have sighted in at 50 yards using the calculations from this spreadsheet with my 30-30 and 30-06 and was nearly dead on at 100, 150, and 200 yards with the tables I printed out.

I've compared a bunch of different loads as I was shopping around for a new rifle and was comparing ballistics charts with various calibers.

The one thing I've noticed is it appears that you are almost always better off sighting in at 50 yards than at 100 yards.

Guess it should actually say bullet path on Y-axis, but think you can get the picture:

My feeder is only 75 yards away. But I use the spreadsheet to adjust my zero such that the highest my point of impact will ever be is 2.5" high. I then see where I should be hitting at 50 yards and at 100 yards and sight in there.

Before this year I haven't done much rifle shooting. Been spending a good bit of time at the range this year and I'm surprised at how close these charts are.

But like mentioned above, I would only use the charts to get you close. Then shoot a group at each distance and record your results. Don't forget to shoot at 50 yards, save that target and if you bump your scope, you can always easily check it at 50 yards and not have to walk 100, 200, or more yards out to double check that its still sighted in.

I shoot a 150 grain in a 270. Most of my shots are 60-120 yards. With my load it is zeroed at 50 and 100 yards which serves 99% of my shooting needs. At 200 yards it drops 3-4 inches which is easy to compensate and covers all of my shooting needs. I havent practiced past 200 and wont shoot at deer past it. Hogs are another question alltogether.

Remington has a program called remington shoot that shows what you can expect from there ammo. It's called remingtonshoot.

This is a good one..
I also like the Cabelas application. I think it was $6 or $7 but has almost every factory round from almost all manufacturer in its ballistics calc.

I haven't looked at my ballistics info on the 25-06, but going with my 270 data, if MV is 3000 fps and if you sight it in at 200 yards (or about 1.5 inches high, give or take, at 100 yards), you'll be down about 7 inches at 300 and 20 inches at 400. That's really all the info most experienced hunters will need to make the shot out to 400. Past that, I generally won't shoot. For my 270 and my 260, I just remember "7, 20, 40". The only problem, and it's a small one, is that to get to 3000 fps, I had to go to a lighter bullet in the 260. And, of course, it helps to know how far the whitetail is, or my 7, 20, 40 isn't worth much.

In my opinion, this is the best advice.

For hunting purposes maximum point blank zero. For a 117 gr bullet 2.5" high @ 100yds give you a point blank zero out to about 300 yds.

If you have a mil dot scope sight in dead nuts @ 100yds and know your dope. All my hunting rifles are sighted in this way. I do verify because I hand load I'll sight in at "x" distance high and see what it does out at 300yds. For my match rifles I do a 100yd sight in and just know my dope and adjust my turrets accordingly. The MPBR is a great idea for hunting purposes.

If you even think you may have some longer shots, it makes the most sense to be zeroed at 200 yards or the point blank zero.