I've sighted in my .270 a half inch high at 100 yards. Based on my setup and ballistics calculator that puts me on Zero at 50 and 150 yards. Typical shot while hunting is 75-100 yards.

What yardage to do you sight in at (include caliber and typical shot estimate)?

I usually sight mine in 2.5" hi at 100. But my shots can be longer than yours.

im right with ya i just do 2'' tho..

I site dead on at 100, most shots range from 70-120 yards. I have shot out to 200 with no problems on a couple ocasions.

matt

1" high at 100

mine that I hunt with often now are sighted in for 300. Usually in the 2.5-3.5 range at 100 and remembering it's going to be higher than that at 200. I'm set-up to shoot 20 or 500. With my 270wsm(s) and 300wm(s) I've figured out that with that set-up & shooting at deer size game, I can put crosshairs on their back at 400 & post on their back @ 500 and be good w/o touching the turrets.

X2

http://www.nikonhunting.com/spoton/tutorial/index.html

Let them tell ya.

Fairly accurate with the standard load selections they have to offer.

I realize many on this forum have decades and decades of experience and have forgotten more than I have ever known about ballistics. However, I think some with such experience become accustomed to talking in shorthand and tend put things in a way that is accurate but confusing to a new shooter.

From my teaching rifle shooting to kids at a local 4H club, I prefer to only refer to the first time a round crosses the line of sight as the “sighting in range.” For example, when one says that a rifle is sighted in at 200 yards, what they probably mean is that the round crosses zero for the second time (on its way down) at 200 yards. In this example, the first zero would be around 40 to 60 yards, depending on many factors.

Your choice of a 50 yard zero (which means a bit high at 100 yards, approximately) is very reasonable for your anticipated shooting range. You may also consider another reasonable choice of sighting in at 100 yards exactly. You will be a fraction of an inch low at 75 yards and about a half-inch high (look it up online) at 125 yards. In other words, for your anticipated needs, just aim and fire.

I'm 1.85 " high at a hundred.... Puts me dead on at 300 and just 6" low at 400

This is what I would say...

1) Choose to sight in "dead on" at the range you have the highest percentage of shooting your target at.
2) Know the ballistics for your particular bullet like the back of your hand and compensate for rise/drop depending on your available shot. (If you are not good at "on the fly math", do some calcuations for a series of ranges and have those available depending on the available shot.)
3) Have a good rangefinder or pre-locate range markers so you are not guessing at distances.
4) Aim small - miss small

Actually, I just ran some numbers through a calculator (that's what I meant by looking it up online). Again, I do not know your precise numbers, but based on one guess that I ran, a zero at 100 is technically a sighting in range (a zero) at 75, and it would be -.4 at 125 yards. That is a really good choice for your anticipated line of fire.

FYI - I like to sight in at 50, meaning a bit high at 100, because, frankly, I have a very convenient 50 yard shooting spot to use.

I sight dead on at 100 yards and just compensate for longer shots based on ballistics.

200 yard zero

^^^^this^^^^^ I am 1.5 high at 100, 2.7 low at 250 and roughly 7 low at 300.

Dead on at 100 dial the rest.

Dead on at 100. Most of my shots are 50 yards or less. If longer shot needed I know I am 2.5" low at 200 w/ 30-06

.308 dead on at 100 if i gotta shoot further just add some clicks to the moa.

Everything I've got is sighted for MPBR(Maximum Point Blank Range). One does have to have a working knowledge of various loads and an ability to judge distance in the field. Range finders are a nice thing to have! Out to 300+ just line up the crosshairs and go for it. Here's a link to a decent MPBR article. They are using .308 150gr as example......

http://amongtheleaves.com/?p=184

I am not picky. I sight in at 100 yards and as long as the pattern is any where from dead on bull to 1" high I am cool with it. I tend to worry more about group size than being a certin measurment above bull.

Depends on round and ballistics.

Use my elliminator and it does the work for me LOL

I have a chronograph so I am able to find out the FPS on what I'm shooting and then I zero for MPBR. Might be 225, might be 250 yards. I just put distance above or below LOS on my scope cover in 50 yards increments out to 350 yards in case I need to know. That way I know I'm +- 3 inchs of my point of aim. Good enough for most game. Varmint's excluded. I normally will not shoot past 300yards on deer.

Well I st my 7 mm at 2 1/2 high at 100. I am real close to zero at two hundred. Where I am sit up I can shoot a long ways, But I don't take shots of more than 300yrds. The round you shoot makes a lot of differents. I shoot a 165 gr Boat tail bullet.

Depends on round and ballistics.

We use adjustable turret scopes so we start dead on at either 100 or 200 depending on the rifle and terrain, and adjust from there.

On the Burris Ballisti-Plex reticles we are 1.5 high, which is calibrated for the tick marks at 3, 4 and 5 hundred

this is pretty interesting. I never thought to zero in an inch high...makes scense i guess depending on situation. I downloaded a very helpful app to my iphone. It's the Winchester Balistics Calculater. Basically, Select your caliber, bullet weight, range conditions, ect...push shoot and it will tell you drop, velocity, time ect...

1.5" high at 100 yds.

Unless you are adjusting your scope depending on range I think a 100 yard zero is doing yourself an injustice with most deer rifles being used.

I'm sure there are exceptions, but I have looked at ballistic charts for 30/30, 30-06, 270, and 7mm mag to name a few. In every case I've looked at A 100 yard zero results in no high hits on paper. Therefore you will see more and more drop at 200 and 300 yards.

Do yourself a favor and look at ballistic charts. Sure if you're only going to shoot at 70 - 120 yards 100 yards will work just fine. But what IF you get that 200 - 250 yard shot? Wouldn't you want to be prepared should you get that opportunity?

I just couldn't get through to a couple people a while back when I was sighting in my 30-06. I was zeroing in at 40 yards. They kept telling me I was going to be way low. He just couldn't understand how I was 2" high at 100 yards after I zero'd in at 40 yards.

With 40 yard zero I'm 8.3" low at 300 yards; 50 yard Zero, I'd be 11.7" low at 300 yards, but with 100 yard zero I'd be 13.5" low at 300 yards.

Whatever you do, If you're zeroing in as the bullet crosses the crosshairs the second time, go back and shoot a target at 25, 30, or 40 yards. Save that target with you. Next time you want to check your gun rather than stepping off 200 yards, you can shoot at 25-40 yards and compare. I've learned to sight in at the 40 yards, and then only need fine tuning at 100, 150, and or 200 yards.

Just one example of where you would actually be better off with a 50 yard zero than a 100 yard zero.

At current Im not going to shoot past 300 yards even if the shot exists and I have plenty of time to make it. Most of my shots are around 100 yards a little more or little less. I take neck shots sometimes, when you do that sighting in 1.5" hi at 100 can change things. I can hold over just fine for shots to 300 yards without adjusting anything for a body shot and I still dont sacrifice my up close shooting for a dead on point of aim.

matt

200 yard zero- 20 Inch drop with Hornady ammo at 400 yards. I actually keep yardage book with me while hunting. Just a dad gum nerd

I use the Strelok Android app even gives me a retical reference based on wind, elevation, and scope retical design...along with drop at whatever yardage you put in.

Sounds cool. Is it programable for most any caliber velocity etc.

Yeah..you enter your rifle/scope setup and balistic data and it does the rest...saves multiple guns too.

Good info.