A little slow here at work so added an optional base (6 foot tall) and 2'6" x 4'-0" landing. Set the landing down about one step to make it attach easier and give a little more head room on the landing. Added rope railing for safety and something extra to grab on to climbing the ladder. Did this for my daughters fort on her ladder and it a big help. Had to make wider than 24" because the door would hit. Added 2x2 furring framed windows and 2x2 framing above windows.

Looks good. Why don't you build one and I will try it out to be sure all the bugs are worked out before you make one for yourself!

First off, thanks to all those that provided many comments and suggestions. I used some but not all and maybe put my own spin on them.

I converted the fabrication pdf's to images so I could post them. If you would like the actual printable pdf sent me a PM and will try and send out asap. They should print out cleaner from the pdf.

Builder Beware At this point in time I have not built yet by the drawings and some errors may exist but should not be many.

Plus builder can use as reference and modify to their own needs and preferences.

If your can please include your email in the PM. Think that is the only way I can send them.

Don't extend the roof over the door so far. The wind will grab that extended roof and hand it back to you. We also put shelving up in the high end on the inside to keep things from rolling around on your feet.

I built one similar to that last year for my kids to hunt out of. Mine is 7'6" x 8' with the high side being 6'6" tall. I elevated it 7'. I also added a shooting bench under the the windows in the front and right side (directions most deer come from), my kids now can shoot out of sand bags (helps control buck fever in a youngun). I am a general contractor so I used only sraps left over from jobs, it is not very pretty ( 4 different colors of metal) but the deer don't mind. I fully insulated it floor included and carpeted floor and shooting bench.

pm sent

Damn man, your just building a deer blind. That looks like you are going to get serious about the situation.

Good job with the plans. If you're gonna do do it right is what my Dad always told me.

Yeah had some down time @ work and figured why not. It's just time and once they are done they should help someone else even if to mark up for a different size blind. Thought about putting a price but since I was getting paid anyway why double dip.



Thanks.

Yes but the building it part is the hard part. Looks good though.

I have found that you can build a 4 X 8 for the same or close to the same price for materials. The extra 2 feet is nice for more than one hunter. Never found a landing to be much of an advantage. I never plan to view more than 180 degrees so rear windows are of no value. I use a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood horizontal at 36 inches from the floor and cut out the center to give a 10 inch "shelf" all around the stand and shoot off sandbags. You will probably have to shorten the back on an office chair to allow it to swivel but you do not need to move the chair to shoot left or right. Very quick. Windows that hinge up and inside are the only way to go. Use glass - lexan or plexiglass gets too many scratches to make using binoculars comfortable with windows closed. I use shutters on the outside of the windows that hinge up with nylon web hinges (think load binder straps used on 18 wheelers) and a rope pulley that is clamped from the inside. This gives you an adjustable sun screen and rain protection at the same time. If you transport the stand assembled the shutters protect the windows from the wind. I build my stands from 14 guage square tubing and chip board siding with 3/4 plywood for the floor and shelf. Swimming pool liner for the roof is fantastic but metal is easier to get.

What thickness glass do you use? I guess if you took out the windows any time you intend to move that would prevent from cracking them. They should not crack in place. Would also be easy to tint as well.

I did a total material tack-off using Lowe's online pricing.

To build as shown with 6 foot elevated legs. Cost of materials & fasteners would be about $475-$500 including taxes.

Blind alone material cost was around $350-$375 with taxes. Plus whatever paint you use. You could save about $40 if you go with OSB instead of plywood.

I need to find a good source of scrap materials. This cost will only go up if gas prices continue to rise and they will.

As far as windows in the back being of no value, I guess it depends on stand location/placement. If it weren't for back windows, my fiance wouldn't have a deer at the taxidermist right now. The only shot she had was directly behind us and it was her 2nd buck and was a high 130's 8.

Looks like a great stand so far. Hope it works out for you. If you end up using lexan for the windows I would make them to where they slide up and out of the way rather than to the side. I have done it before using a small eye hook screwed into the lexan and then run up to a another eye hook above the window. The string then ran down to where you could hook a loop on a nail to hold the window up. That prevented the situation where you have to cut the lexan in half and slide the sides over each other. Could also help prevent scratching, and the need for glass.

Whatever you do make sure to post final built pics.

PM sent. Very nice work, radtexas.

The plans look great. Would love to see the finished product.

I never built this blind. I decided to build the (6) sided blind I designed.

http://www.texashuntingforum.com/forum/u...tos#Post2500091

Could you please email me a set of plans? rhoskins@ociw.com Thank you in advance.

If the door swings out, I would recommend shifting the ladder over.

can you send me the plans to my email shootingfly@yahoo.com

Buy one. Folks do this for a living and have this all worked out.

Sent these and the other two I did. Hope they help.

Outstanding looking set of drawings radtexas. Would you mind sending me a copy to navcec75@yahoo.com ? I would be very much obliged an would like to take a crack at it...

Jeremy